Applications

Sealing around sinks, showers, tubs, tile, counter tops and fixtures.

Features

• Permanently waterproof, unlike acrylic
• Unlike acrylic, silicone will not shrink or crack
• Permanently flexible, unlike acrylic
• Bioseal mold and mildew protection
• Non-paintable
• Lifetime warranty
• Adheres to a broad range of surfaces, glass, tile, porcelain, metal, fiberglass, wood, drywall and plastic

Colors and Sizes

1. Gather your materials. You will need: safety goggles, bucket, measuring tape, utility knife, adjustable pliers, pipe wrench, adjustable wrench, crowbar, hacksaw, screwdriver, tube cutter, copper tubing, emery cloth, propane torch, solder, flux, drywall and drywall joint compound, tape, screws, or nails, taping knife, paint and paint brush, wallpaper and glue, or tiles, adhesive, and grout, as needed to finish the wall or floor, spirit level, plumber's putty, power drill and carbide bit, GE Silicone II Kitchen and Bath, and caulking gun

2. After you've determined the best location for the sink, turn the sink upside down and position it on the countertop in the spot you eventually want to place it. Measure the width and depth of the sink. Check under the cabinet to make sure the new sink will have enough clearance for the faucet supply plumbing and the drain assembly and that it will clear the structural parts of the cabinet.

3. Place the sink onto the countertop. With the sink still upside down and in its final position, lightly trace the perimeter of the sink onto the countertop with a pencil. Measure the lip of the sink. Measure the depth of the sink's lip (the part that will lay flush on the countertop). Most sinks have a 1/2" lip. Remove the sink. Draw a cut-line 1/2" inside the previously traced perimeter line.

4. Drill a pilot hole. Before you drill or cut, measure everything again to make sure your sink will fit properly. Every good carpenter measures twice and cuts once. When you're sure of the placement, at any point along the cut-line, drill a hole big enough to accept the blade from your jigsaw. Then, cut the opening. With a jigsaw, cut the opening along the cut-line (1/2" inside the sink's perimeter line).

5. Mount all the sink hardware. Following the manufacturer's instructions, mount the faucet and drain assemblies to the drop-in sink. Be certain to apply a bead of plumber's putty to the underside of the drain in order to provide a watertight seal. Wipe away any excess sealant before it begins to cure.

6. Check the sink's fit. Before applying any sealant, place the sink with the drain and faucet assemblies into the opening to ensure it will fit. Position the sink in its absolute final location and mark several guide points around the sink and countertop with a light pencil.

7. Apply the sealant. Remove the sink and place it upside down. Apply an unbroken 3/8" bead of GE Silicone II Kitchen and Bath to the underside of the sink's lip.

8. Carefully lower the sink back into the opening and align it with the pencil guides. Press the sink down firmly to spread the sealant and form a watertight seal between the sink and the countertop. Wipe away any excess sealant with a clean, dry cloth before it begins to skin-within 2-5 minutes. Allow the sealant to set [for] completely before connecting the plumbing supplies and drain. GE Silicone II Kitchen and Bath will completely cure in 25 hours.

9. Attach plumbing to sink. Once the sealant has completely cured, follow the manufacturer's instructions and attach all the plumbing components.