Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.
Every degree of heat that slips through a crack costs you. You don’t need new windows, just better sealing and insulation. In a few focused steps, you can stop the leaks, keep warmth inside, and start lowering your energy bill for good.
Seal first, then insulate. The tighter your envelope, the less your furnace works, and the faster your energy bill drops.
Why sealing and insulation help lower your energy bill
Every winter, heating takes the biggest bite out of your energy costs. When warm air is slipping through cracks, you’re paying to heat the outdoors. You want to seal those leaks first to stop infiltration, then insulate to hold the warmth where it belongs. Together, the fixes create a barrier that helps cut wasted energy at the source.
According to the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA), sealing air leaks and adding insulation can lower your energy bill (cutting heating and cooling costs) by up to 15% on average.
Focus on the areas that lose the most:
- Attic penetrations
- Rim joists
- Window or door perimeters
15-minute leak check: find the money leaks
Light an incense stick or use a smoke pencil and move it slowly along your windows and door trims, outlets on exterior walls, and the attic hatch.
When the smoke wavers or pulls, mark the spot with painter’s tape.
Work from the top down: attic penetrations first, rim joists and sill plates last. That’s where pressure pushes warm air out and draws cold air in, a pattern called the stack effect.
Once you’ve mapped the leaks, you have a clear plan for what to seal first. That’s how to lower your energy bill with minimal effort and measurable results.
Attic first: seal penetrations, then top up insulation
Start with the attic leaks you marked earlier (remove the painter’s tape as you seal each spot). This is where heat often escapes first. Seal here before you add insulation. This ensures the attic insulation performs as rated and helps reduce energy use to keep your energy bill lower.
Seal the small gaps (up to one inch)
Check around wires, pipes, and light fixtures. Fill any openings with GE Gaps & Cracks Insulating Foam. It expands to block air paths and stays flexible as materials shift.
Use GE Pest Block Insulating Foam for small openings up to one inch that connect to the outdoors or where pests are a concern.
Fill larger openings (between one and three inches)
For wider chases or cavities, use GE Big Gaps & Cracks. Apply a steady bead and allow it to expand until sealed. For deep voids, apply in layers and let each pass cure before adding more. Trim excess once cured.
Add insulation correctly
Lay batts or blow-in loose-fill insulation to meet your local R-value (the recommended insulation level for your climate). Keep soffit vents clear, install baffles where needed, and slide one into each rafter bay at the eaves to keep air flowing from the soffit to the attic.
Avoid covering recessed lights, chimneys, or flues, and make sure lights are IC-rated (safe for insulation contact). Check for “IC” stamped on the light housing label. But if it isn’t, keep insulation far enough away per the manufacturer’s instructions to prevent overheating and potential combustion.
Safety first: Check temperature and clearance on the can label or Technical Data Sheet, then leave the listed gaps around flues and recessed lights. Note that foam sealant is not a firestop.
These steps help reduce heat loss at the top of your home and shorten the heater’s run time. It’s a clear, measurable payoff you’ll see on upcoming bills.
Rim joists and sill plates: seal out cold floors and drafts where they start
Cold floors often begin at the edges of your home: the rim joists and sill plates that connect framing to the foundation.
These joints are full of small gaps that draw cold air in and let warm air leak out. Sealing them is one of the most direct ways to lower your energy bill.
Simple DIY method
Cut rigid foam insulation to fit snugly between each joist bay. Press each panel in place, then seal the edges with GE Gaps & Cracks Insulating Foam to create an airtight border.
Where the area opens to the outdoors or shows signs of pest entry, use GE Pest Block Insulating Foam instead.
If you find larger gaps or uneven joints, fill them first with GE Big Gaps & Cracks, then seat the foam panels once cured. Finally, run a thin bead along the sill plate where the framing meets the foundation to close hairline gaps that pull in cold air.
Moisture and safety notes
Inspect for signs of moisture or standing water before sealing. Foam should only be applied to dry, clean surfaces. Never block required foundation vents. If the rim joist shows recurring dampness, fix any water leaks or pooling outside before you seal.
These small steps tighten the home’s perimeter and make your floors feel warmer with every degree of heat you keep inside.
Windows and doors: seal perimeter leaks with the right GE product
Windows and doors are common paths for heat loss and drafts. The trim joints and frame edges that should block outdoor air often develop tiny cracks that work against your heating and cooling efforts.
Resealing these perimeters is a reliable way to lower your energy bill while improving year-round comfort.
Match the sealant to the surface
If you’ll paint the trim, use GE Pro Seal Max Window & Door. It’s a hybrid formula that bonds to most surfaces and accepts paint for a clean, uniform finish indoors or out.
For unpainted frames or areas exposed to weather, reach for GE Supreme Silicone Window & Door. This 100% silicone sealant delivers long-term flexibility and is rain-ready in 30 minutes.
Both products move with seasonal expansion and contraction, which keeps the seal intact through temperature swings.
Prep and apply for lasting results
Follow these steps for a clean, durable seal:
- Remove any cracked or failed caulk with the GE Sealant Remover Tool. Its dual ends lift and scrape away old material cleanly without damaging surrounding surfaces.
- Wipe away residue, then make sure the area is clean and dry before sealing.
- Apply a continuous, even bead along each joint with steady gun pressure.
- Smooth the fresh sealant with the GE Sealant Smoothing Tool for a uniform finish that locks out air and moisture.
- Add new weatherstripping or a door sweep where needed for a tighter perimeter.
These steps make sealing faster, cleaner, and more consistent across every joint.
Ready to stop paying to heat the outdoors? Seal and insulate with GE Window & Door sealants and GE Insulating Foams built to close every gap that costs you comfort and energy. Find them at a retailer near you in the U.S. or Canada.
