Frequently Asked Questions

Silicone sealant is what you reach for when you need a flexible, waterproof seal that won’t crack, peel, or pull away over time.

Silicone works best on non-porous surfaces like tile, glass, and metal. This makes it ideal for areas that deal with moisture, movement, or temperature swings. You’ll see it used around tubs and sinks with Tub & Tile Silicone®, along expansion joints or splash zones using Advanced Silicone® Kitchen & Bath, and outdoors (on windows or siding) with Supreme Silicone Window & Door.

You can, but it’s not ideal. The old sealant may prevent proper adhesion. For the strongest, longest-lasting results, remove the old bead completely before applying a new one.

Yes, if you’re using a 10.1 oz cartridge. Cut the nozzle at a 45° angle, puncture the inner seal, insert the cartridge into your caulking gun, and apply steady pressure. Watch our video on How to Load a Caulk Gun Quickly and Easily for a step-by-step demo.

Avoid silicone if you need a paintable finish. Silicone is highly moisture-resistant, and paint won’t stick to it.

For paintable surfaces like trim or baseboards, use an acrylic or hybrid sealant like GE Paintable Silicone Supreme.

Silicone struggles with slick materials like polyethylene, Teflon, and oily or dusty surfaces. For porous materials, use Painter’s Pro or specialized options like Concrete Silicone®.

“Caulk” refers to paintable acrylic products used for dry areas like trim or baseboards. “Sealant” means silicone, which stays flexible and waterproof—perfect for tubs, showers, and expansion joints.

Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Use caulk when you’re painting
• Use sealant when water, movement, or durability matters

Both are waterproof and flexible, but they cure differently. All Purpose Silicone is acid-cure, which gives it strong adhesion to glass and ceramic, and has a sharp odor. Advanced Silicone is neutral-cure, which makes it better for metal, plastic, and other sensitive surfaces, has a low odor, and a faster water-ready time.

Start with a clean, dry surface—no soap film, dust, or grease then:

1. Cut the nozzle at a 45° angle
2. Puncture the inner seal
3. Apply a steady, even bead
4. Smooth it right away
5. Let it cure fully before exposing it to water

For more information read our How to Caulk in 5 Easy Steps article.

Cut the nozzle tip, puncture the seal, insert the cartridge, and squeeze evenly. Ease off the trigger between passes to control flow. Watch our step-by-step video to learn more.

Use a utility knife or scraper to cut and lift the old sealant. Clean the residue with rubbing alcohol and let the surface dry fully before applying the new sealant.

For best results, reseal with a mold-resistant silicone like Advanced Silicone® Kitchen & Bath.

Use this mold removal guide for safe cleaning options. Let the area dry for 24 hours before applying a new sealant like Advanced Silicone® Kitchen & Bath.

Never seal over active mold—remove it first.

Sealant alone is best for gaps up to 1/4 inch. For anything wider, use a backer rod first. It gives the sealant something to grip and keeps it from sinking. If the gap is much larger, reach for a foam option like Big Gaps & Cracks Spray Foam or Window & Door Foam.

Yes—sealing the toilet base helps block moisture and bacteria. Use Advanced Silicone® Kitchen & Bath, and match white or clear to your floor.

Check your local code. Some areas require leaving the back edge unsealed to detect leaks.

Use a backer rod when sealing joints deeper than 1/4 inch or gaps wider than 1/2 inch. It helps control the sealant depth and prevents 3-point adhesion—when the sealant sticks to both sides and the bottom of the joint, which can cause cracking over time.

GE silicone, like Advanced Silicone® Kitchen & Bath, is water-resistant in as little as 30 minutes and cures within 24 hours.

Several things slow down or speed up drying time:

• Temperature: Cold weather equals slower cure times.
• Humidity: Silicone needs moisture in the air to cure.
• Bead depth: Thicker layers take longer.
• Formula type: Acrylics like Painter’s Pro dry fast. Silicones like Supreme Silicone Window & Door cure more slowly.

A high-quality silicone sealant should last 3 to 5 years in a shower, depending on use, ventilation, and cleaning habits. Still, you should inspect yearly for peeling, cracking, or mold, especially in corners or joints.

To extend the life of your seal, use a mold-resistant product like Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath and clean regularly with a non-abrasive solution.

With proper prep, GE silicone sealants can last five to 20 years, depending on use and exposure. Supreme Silicone Window & Door is built for long-term outdoor durability and some products include limited lifetime warranties.

Keep unused sealant stored upright in a cool, dry place, away from direct sun or heat. An unopened tube typically lasts 12 to 18 months. For opened cartridges, insert a screw or nail into the nozzle and wrap the tip tightly in foil or plastic.

If the material feels rubbery or won’t come out smoothly, it’s time to toss it. Freezing won’t usually ruin silicone, but it can make it thicker. Acrylics may not recover if frozen.

If you’re using paintable caulk, like GE’s Painter’s Pro or Paintable Silicone Supreme, wait at least 24 hours to cure fully before painting. Make sure the surface is clean and dry, then apply paint directly—no primer is needed in most cases.

Only use a primer if your paint requires it for tricky surfaces. And never use primer over 100% silicone, as it won’t bond. When in doubt, test a small section first to check adhesion.

For interior trim and baseboards, go with GE Painter’s Pro Quick Dry. It’s acrylic, paintable in 30 minutes, and ideal for detailed work. For exterior use or flexible joints that need to be painted, choose Paintable Silicone Supreme. It gives you the durability of silicone with the paintability of acrylic.

Pick clear or white based on your surface.

Cracking usually comes down to product choice or application issues:

• Applied too thin or over a moving joint
• Painted too soon, before the caulk cured
• Acrylic caulks like Painter’s Pro can shrink if overfilled
• Brittle paint can’t stretch with the joint

Silicone sealants like Advanced Silicone® flex and move better

No—paint won’t stick to 100% silicone, no matter what kind you use. Primer won’t help either. If you need to paint the area, remove the silicone and replace it with a paintable caulk, like GE’s Paintable Silicone Supreme or Painter’s Pro.

Apply acrylic caulk sealant first, let it cure, then paint. Use Painter’s Pro Quick Dry to speed up interior jobs.

If you’ve already painted, make sure the paint is dry before sealing with a silicone sealant.

Safe to seal:

• Windows, siding, and trim
• Gutters and downspouts
• Concrete, brick, and stone joints

Avoid sealing:

• Weep holes or vents
• Drainage channels or gaps for runoff
• Wet, icy, or dirty surfaces

Use UV- and weather-resistant products like Supreme Silicone Window & Door, Gutter Silicone®, or Advanced Silicone® for outdoor jobs.

Match your sealant to the surface:

• Concrete or masonry: Use GE’s Concrete Silicone®. It’s made to bond with rough, porous materials.
• Gutters (aluminum, galvanized steel): Go with Gutter Silicone®, designed for outdoor metal.
• Porous surfaces (like wood or drywall): Use an acrylic-based option like Painter’s Pro or Seal & Fill Multi-Purpose Acrylic.

Yes—use a neutral-cure sealant like Advanced Silicone®, which is less likely to stain or etch stone. Avoid acid-cure options like All Purpose Silicone®.

Never apply to oily or unsealed stones. Always test a small hidden area first.

Here’s a quick breakdown:

• Silicone: 100% waterproof, flexible, long-lasting, but not paintable. Best for kitchens, baths, and exterior use.
• Acrylic: Paintable, low-odor, and easy to clean up. Great for trim, molding, and indoor spaces.
• Hybrid: Blends paintability and flexibility. Ideal if you need both.

GE offers all three types. Pick based on where you’re sealing, and whether you’ll need to paint.

You can, but only if conditions are right. GE silicone sealants are designed to perform in sub-zero temperatures, but the surface still needs to be clean, dry, and frost-free for proper adhesion.

Always check the product label or technical data sheet for the correct temperature range—some variants like Advanced Silicone® Window & Door are formulated for cold-weather performance.

For tough outdoor jobs, Supreme Silicone Window & Door is a reliable pick.

Yes, many GE sealants are formulated with mold- and mildew-resistant properties. They won’t kill existing mold, but they help prevent new growth in high-moisture areas like bathtub surrounds, tile corners, kitchen backsplashes, and around sinks.

For best results, always apply to a clean, dry surface.

For tubs, showers, and sinks, go with a 100% silicone that’s waterproof and mold-resistant. For example, GE Advanced Silicone® Kitchen & Bath cures fast, resists mold for up to 10 years, and holds up under daily moisture and scrubbing.

If you need to paint, use Paintable Silicone Supreme—it gives you similar protection with a paint-friendly finish.

For exterior window sealing, use a weatherproof, UV-resistant silicone like GE Supreme Silicone Window & Door—it’s built to handle sun, rain, and seasonal movement.

For interior window trim, go with a paintable acrylic caulk like GE Painter’s Pro. It’s easier to clean up and gives you a smooth finish under the paint.

Yes, GE silicone sealants are 100% waterproof. They’re ideal for bathrooms, kitchens, windows, and other areas exposed to moisture.

Just make sure you let the product cure completely before exposing it to water.

If your project involves full submersion (pools, whirlpools, boats, or aquariums), use a specialty underwater or marine-grade sealant.

Use a mold- and moisture-resistant silicone like GE Advanced Silicone® Kitchen & Bath to seal around the base of the toilet. Choose clear or white depending on your floor or grout color for a clean, professional look.

Avoid using acrylics. They’re great for trim, not for wet zones.

With proper prep and a high-quality product, joints around showers, tubs, and sinks should last 3 to 5 years. But when applied and maintained correctly, it can last much longer—for 10 years or even a lifetime.

Yes—GE sealants are safe for indoor use when applied with proper ventilation.

For indoor projects, GE Advanced Silicone® is a neutral-cure sealant with a low odor—making it a more comfortable choice for enclosed spaces. By contrast, GE All Purpose Silicone® is an acid-cure sealant with a vinegar-like odor.

Tips for indoor use:

• Work in a well-ventilated space
• Avoid direct, prolonged inhalation
• Let the area air out during and after the application

GE sealants are not rated for direct food contact, but once fully cured, they are safe for use in food-prep areas—such as sealing around kitchen sinks, backsplashes, or counter edges.

Avoid applying sealant where it will come into direct contact with food.

If your sealant is peeling or won’t stick, it usually comes down to surface prep or material mismatch.

Common issues:

• Surface wasn’t fully clean or dry
• Applied over soap residue, dust, or oils
• Silicone on painted surfaces often fails to bond
• Wrong product for the material—use acrylic for porous or painted surfaces

How to fix it:

• Clean with rubbing alcohol, not soap
• Use Painter’s Pro on wood or drywall
• Use Advanced Silicone® on tile, glass, or metal
• Always test a small area before sealing fully

Keeping your sealant clean helps it last longer and look better. Here’s what to use and what to avoid:

Safe to use

• Mild soap and warm water
• Soft cloth or sponge
• Diluted bleach (for spot mold)

Avoid using

• Full-strength bleach, ammonia, or acetone
• Abrasive pads or stiff brushes
• Aggressive scrubbing