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Seal skylights fast and keep rain out How to reseal a leaking skylight and prevent future roof damage

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

If stains or drips point to a leaking skylight, failed sealant is often to blame. This guide shows you how to verify the leak, remove the old sealant bead, and reseal so moisture stays out for good.

GE Supreme Silicone Window & Door Sealant delivers a 100 % waterproof, Class 50 flexible seal that keeps skylights watertight and rain-ready in 30 minutes.

How to spot the signs of a leaking skylight

Not every stain or draft means you have a leaking skylight, but when water makes its way inside, it leaves clear clues. Start by inspecting from below—look up at the ceiling—then, if safe, move to the roof for a closer look.

Here’s what to look for:

  • Brown rings or peeling paint near the skylight
  • Musty odors or mildew along the drywall edges
  • Repeating condensation in the same spot
  • Soft or sagging ceiling material
  • Rusted screws or moisture inside the skylight frame
  • Light seeping in around the frame where it shouldn’t

In many cases, leaks stem from degraded sealant or flashing, not cracked glass. Learning to properly seal around a skylight prevents small drips from becoming major repairs.

Condensation or true leak?

Moisture around your skylight doesn’t always mean sealant failure. Before you climb onto the roof, rule out interior condensation, which is common in kitchens, bathrooms, or humid climates.

Condensation appears as fog or droplets on the inner pane when warm, humid air meets cool glass. To test:

  • Check for evenly spaced moisture beads across the glass
  • Ventilate the room and watch if the moisture clears
  • Clear any blockage in weep holes

If the moisture disappears with airflow or only shows up during temperature swings, it’s condensation. But if you see staining or drip trails after a storm, it’s time to learn how to reseal a skylight properly.

Choosing the best sealant for your skylight and gathering essential tools

When sealing around a skylight, ordinary caulk won’t cut it. You need a sealant that stays watertight through UV, wind, and rain, while bonding to wood, glass, metal, and roofing materials. GE offers 100% silicone and hybrid options perfect for skylight resealing.

Best sealant for skylight projects:

Good

Advanced Silicone Window & Door Sealant: A reliable, Class 35 sealant suited for rigid curb mount skylights in mild climates. It cures slower than other options but works well for touch-ups on non-painted surfaces.

Better

Supreme Silicone Window & Door Sealant: Our go-to for most resealing jobs. It flexes to Class 50 standards, holds up through freeze-thaw cycles, and is rain-ready in 30 minutes. Great for exposed curbs or wood frames.

Best

Pro Seal Max Window & Door Sealant: A hybrid formula that delivers waterproof protection plus paintability. Ideal when you need a color match on interior trim or flashing. Lightly sand glossy aluminum surfaces before application for better adhesion.

Gather these tools before you start:

  • Utility knife
  • GE Sealant Remover Tool (for cleanly pulling old beads)
  • Backer rod (for any gap wider than 1/4 inch)
  • Mineral-spirits rag for final cleanup
  • GE Cartridge Opener & Smoothing Tool
  • Caulking gun
  • Painter’s tape (optional for clean bead lines)
  • A drop cloth or tarp to protect the shingles

Keep all tools within arm’s reach to minimize trips down the ladder. It’s the fastest way to seal around a skylight cleanly and safely.

Roof-safety checklist

Sealing a skylight means working at height. Before stepping onto the roof, take these precautions to protect yourself and your home:

  • Position your ladder on firm, level ground at a 4:1 angle (one foot out for every four feet up).
  • Maintain three points of contact at all times, such as two hands and one foot, or vice versa.
  • Clip your harness to a secure roof anchor before leaving the ladder.
  • Do not step on the skylight glass or frame. Stay on the roof decking only.
  • Wear rubber-soled boots for grip and move slowly to avoid slipping.
  • Only work in dry, daylight conditions when winds are calm.
  • Confirm the air and roof temperature is between 40°F and 100°F and that no rain is forecast for 24 hours.

If you are unsure at any point, have someone on the ground for backup. A safe setup is the foundation for every successful seal.

Remove old sealant and prepare the joint

Before you can reseal a leaking skylight, remove all old sealant and debris. New silicone won’t bond to cured material or dirt. Follow these steps to clean a joint for a watertight reseal.

Removing the old sealant from skylight flashing using the GE Sealant Remover Tool.
Someone using the GE Sealant Remover Tool.
  1. Gently lift the shingle tab around the skylight. Use a flat bar or gloved fingers to expose the flashing without tearing shingles.
  2. Score and remove the old sealant. Run a utility knife along both sides of the bead, then pull the strip away in sections using the GE Sealant Remover Tool.
  3. Clean the flashing. Wipe the joint with a rag dampened with mineral spirits. Let it dry for at least 15 minutes for a bone-dry surface.
  4. Insert a backer rod if needed. If the gap is wider than 1/4 inch, push in a backer rod to control sealant depth and avoid three-sided adhesion.

Proper prep ensures your new bead sticks where it needs to, stopping a leaking skylight for good.

Apply an even, watertight bead

With the joint clean and dry, you’re ready to apply your chosen GE sealant. A smooth, continuous bead keeps water out for the long haul.

  1. Use the GE Cartridge Opener to cut the nozzle at a 45-degree angle, matching the joint width.
  2. Load the cartridge into your caulking gun and puncture the inner seal with the same GE tool you used in step 1. Squeeze a test bead onto scrap material to confirm smooth flow.
  3. Run a continuous bead along the gap between the skylight and flashing. Apply steady pressure and a consistent angle, working in one uninterrupted motion from corner to corner.
  4. Tool the bead immediately with the GE Smoothing Tool or a gloved finger. Press sealant into the joint, remove air pockets, and shape a clean finish. If you used painter’s tape for edge control, peel it off before the bead skins over.
Someone applying GE Supreme Silicone Window & Door Sealant on a window frame.

Allow the appropriate cure window before exposing to moisture or painting.

Monitor for leaks and recheck your work

Once the sealant has cured, verify that your leaking skylight repair holds:

  • Inspect the bead after 24 hours for cracks, gaps, or areas where the sealant didn’t adhere.
  • If possible, spray-test the frame with a low-pressure garden hose for several minutes. Check inside for drips.
  • Pay close attention to corners and curved sections prone to shrinkage stress.
  • Re-tool only if needed. If a section fails, repeat the prep and sealing steps on that spot.
  • Schedule an annual spring inspection to catch sealant wear before winter weather.

Record the repair date, sealant product, and cure time to inform future maintenance and stay ahead of water intrusion.

When to call a pro

Not every leaking skylight can be fixed with sealant alone. If resealing doesn’t stop the drip or if the damage is structural, hire a licensed roofing contractor or skylight specialist.

Call a pro when you see:

  • Rotting wood around the curb or framing
  • Cracked, fogged, or broken glazing
  • Flashing that’s loose or too corroded to hold sealant
  • Leaks that return after resealing
  • Water spots that extend beyond the skylight area

Consider professional help for steep or high roofs, or when local codes require an inspection for skylight retrofits.

GE sealants deliver advanced waterproofing performance, but they work best on solid structures. When in doubt, hire a pro.

Ready to seal your skylight? Find GE sealants at a retailer near you in the U.S. or Canada.

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A few minutes of wall prep can make your paint job last years longer The quickest way to prep walls before painting

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

Knowing how to prep walls before painting is the quickest way to get better-looking, longer-lasting results. Even a short weekend project benefits from filling small holes, smoothing rough areas, and cleaning the surface. With the right tools, like GE Interior Fill Acrylic Putty, you can take the guesswork out of wall prep and ensure your paint goes on clean and even.

Why wall prep matters for painting

Proper wall preparation is one of the most important steps in achieving a clean, professional-looking paint job. Skipping prep can lead to uneven coverage, visible imperfections, and poor paint adhesion, ultimately shortening the life of your finish. Taking the time to patch holes, smooth rough areas, and  cleaning surfaces helps paint glide on evenly and adhere correctly.

Walls often collect dust, grease, or minor dents that can interfere with your results if not addressed. Even small nail holes or hairline cracks can show through fresh paint unless they’re properly filled and sanded. Prepping the surface allows you to start with a clean slate and reduces the chance of needing touchups later.

Whether you’re painting a bedroom, hallway, or kitchen, spending a little extra time on prep can save hours in cleanup or correction. For DIYers aiming for pro-level results, wall prep is where quality begins.

For shallow holes or minor cracks, use a lightweight spackling compound or a product like GE Interior Fill Acrylic Putty, which is ideal for sealing interior gaps and joints. If the hole is deeper than 1/4 inch, fill it in layers, allowing each layer to dry before adding more. For gaps along trim, baseboards, or corners where movement might occur, use GE Interior Seal Silicone Sealant.

Patch holes and cracks

Before you think about rolling on paint, take time to patch any visible holes, cracks, or surface damage. Even small imperfections can stand out after painting, especially under natural light or on darker color walls. Begin by inspecting the wall closely. Look for nail holes, dents, hairline cracks, or any areas where drywall or plaster has chipped.

A photo of GE Interior Fill Acrylic Putty.
GE Interior Fill Acrylic Putty.

For shallow holes or minor cracks, use a lightweight spackling compound or a product like GE Interior Fill Acrylic Putty, which is ideal for sealing interior gaps and joints. If the hole is deeper than 1/4 inch, fill it in layers, allowing each layer to dry before adding more. Use a putty knife or GE’s Sealant Smoothing Tool to apply the filler smoothly, slightly overfilling to account for shrinkage.

For gaps along trim, baseboards, or corners where movement might occur, use GE Interior Seal Silicone Sealant. It stays flexible and helps prevent future cracking, plus it’s paint-ready in 30 minutes to keep your project moving.

Sand for a smooth surface

Once repairs are dry, sanding is the next essential step in prepping walls before painting. Uneven patches, residual paint lines, and general surface roughness can all show through a fresh coat, especially with glossy or semi-gloss finishes. Use fine-grit sandpaper (120–220 grit) to smooth any filled areas, feathering the edges so they blend seamlessly with the surrounding wall.

For larger areas or textured surfaces, a sanding block or pole sander helps maintain even pressure. Be careful not to oversand drywall seams or corners, as this can remove too much material and require re-patching.

Clean the walls

Once sanding is complete, vacuum or wipe the wall with a damp cloth to remove all dust, as leftover particles can prevent paint from adhering properly.

Dust, grease, and grime can also lead to streaking or uneven coverage. Kitchens and bathrooms especially tend to have buildup near sinks, stoves, and vents that need to be removed. Start by wiping down the entire wall surface with a damp sponge or microfiber cloth. For stubborn spots, use a mild soap solution, just be sure to rinse with clean water afterward to avoid leaving residue.

Pay extra attention to high-touch areas like around light switches and baseboards. Let the wall dry completely before priming or painting. Even a small amount of moisture can impact how paint adheres and dries. A clean surface helps the paint bond properly and ensures a smoother, more durable finish. Skipping this step is an often-neglected painting tip, leading to peeling or premature wear over time.

Apply tape and protect adjacent areas

A photo of a homeowner applying painter’s tape along baseboards.
3-A-photo-of-a-homeowner-applying-painters-tape-along-baseboards

Taping off trim, outlets, wainscotting, and other adjacent surfaces helps ensure clean paint lines and protects areas you don’t want painted. Use high-quality painter’s tape to mask baseboards, door frames, window trim, and wall edges. Press the tape down firmly with a putty knife or your fingertip to prevent paint from bleeding underneath.

Cover nearby floors or furniture with drop cloths or plastic sheeting to catch drips and splatters. If you’re painting near hardware, fixtures, or built-ins, remove them or tape them off for easier work. Taking a few minutes to prep these areas saves time on cleanup and helps give your project a polished, professional-looking finish.

Final check before painting

Run your hand over patched areas to feel for any roughness. If anything catches, give it a light sanding. Double-check that all holes and gaps are filled and that the caulk along the trim and corners is dry to the touch.

If you’ve used GE Interior Fill Acrylic Putty or Interior Seal Silicone Sealant, ensure all repairs are cured according to label instructions. A final once-over now will help ensure a smooth, professional finish once you start painting.

To get GE Sealants’ products for your home improvement project, visit these fine retailers in the U.S. or Canada.

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Get ahead of moisture damage with these siding repair tips How to fill small gaps in siding before moisture seeps in

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

Small gaps in your home’s siding might not look serious, but they can let in moisture that damages walls, insulation, and framing. Rain, humidity, and temperature swings can make these gaps worse over time. With the right tools and weather-resistant sealants from GE Sealants, you can fix them yourself and help prevent costly repairs.

Choosing the right sealant is the first step in getting the job done right. For small gaps in siding, you need a sealant like GE Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk to stay flexible, resist the elements, and bond firmly to common exterior materials like wood, fiber cement, and vinyl.

How to spot gaps in siding

Gaps in siding can appear in several forms and catching them early helps prevent water damage and energy loss. Start by visually inspecting your exterior walls for thin cracks, warped boards, or separations between panels. Pay special attention to corners, where two siding sections meet, and areas around windows, doors, vents, and outdoor faucets. These spots are prone to movement and stress over time.

Also check where siding meets trim or foundations, as shifting or settling can create small openings. Flaking paint, discoloration, or mildew may also signal hidden gaps allowing moisture intrusion. Use a flashlight and gently press on suspect areas to check for movement or soft spots behind the surface. If the siding creaks or gives way, it may indicate a loose panel or underlying water damage. Perform exterior inspections at least once a year, especially before rainy seasons or after extreme weather changes that may have stressed your home.

Choosing the right sealant for the job

A photo of GE Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk.
GE Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk.

Choosing the right sealant is the first step in getting the job done right. For small gaps in siding, you need a sealant that stays flexible, resists the elements, and bonds well to common exterior materials like wood, fiber cement, and vinyl. GE Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk is a strong choice. It’s paintable, easy to apply, and specially formulated for exterior use. It adheres to a variety of surfaces and provides excellent durability against rain, sun, and seasonal expansion and contraction.

As a general siding repair tip, avoid using interior caulks or standard silicone sealants outdoors, as they may crack, peel, or lose adhesion over time. GE Exterior Seal also cleans up with water, making it beginner-friendly for DIYers. If you need extra flexibility around high-movement joints like windows or doors, consider GE Pro Seal Max Window & Door, which offers advanced stretch and weather protection. Choosing the right product ensures your siding gap repairs hold up through the seasons.

Preparing your surfaces

When caulking exterior siding, proper surface prep will guarantee your work lasts as long as it should. Start by removing old sealant, paint flakes, or debris from the gap using a utility knife or GE’s Sealant Remover Tool. For rougher buildup, a wire brush can help clear out residue. Once the area is cleared, wash it with soap and water to remove dust and grime, then allow it to dry completely.

A dry, clean surface ensures the new sealant bonds correctly and performs as expected over time. If the siding is chalky or weathered, lightly sanding the area, with high grit 120-and-up, can improve adhesion. For neater lines, apply painter’s tape along both sides of the gap, especially near trim or painted edges. This not only helps guide the bead but also speeds up cleanup. Skipping surface prep is a common mistake that can lead to early sealant failures. Take the extra time now to make sure your siding repair holds up in changing weather.

How to seal siding gaps: step-by-step

Filling small gaps in siding is a manageable DIY task when you follow the right steps and use the right sealants. We recommend GE Exterior Seal for general siding repairs and GE Pro Seal Max Window & Door for gaps near trim or high-movement areas.

Step 1: Cut the nozzle

A photo of a sealant tube cut at a 45-degree angle.
A sealant tube cut at a 45-degree angle.

Cut the tip of the tube at a 45-degree angle to match the width of the gap. For GE Exterior Seal, use scissors or a utility knife. For Pro Seal Max, you’ll also need to puncture the inner seal.

Step 2: Prepare the tube

  • If using GE Exterior Seal, simply squeeze the tube to apply. It does not require a caulking gun.
  • If using GE Pro Seal Max, insert the tube into a standard caulk gun and squeeze the trigger to dispense the sealant.

Step 3: Apply painter’s tape

To keep the bead neat, apply painter’s tape along both sides of the gap before you begin sealing. This is especially helpful near painted surfaces or trim.

Step 4: Apply the sealant

Hold the tube, or caulk gun, at a consistent angle and apply a steady bead into the gap. Use even pressure to avoid air pockets or skips.

Step 5: Tool the bead

Immediately smooth the bead with a gloved finger or or GE’s Sealant Smoothing Tool to press it in and shape it evenly.

Step 6: Remove the tape

While the sealant is still wet, peel off the painter’s tape to maintain crisp, clean lines.

Step 7: Let it cure

Allow the sealant to dry fully per product instructions. GE Exterior Seal is typically paint-ready in about 30 minutes. Check label for exact timing based on weather conditions.

Following these steps helps seal siding gaps before water, pests, or drafts can find their way inside. With good prep, the right sealant, and proper application, your repair will provide durable, weather-resistant protection that blends into your home’s exterior.

Common mistakes to avoid

Always apply sealant in dry conditions with temperatures within the product’s recommended range. Avoid sealing over dirty or damp surfaces, as this weakens adhesion and shortens the life of your repair. Don’t overfill or underfill gaps.

Rather, aim for a smooth, continuous bead that fully seals the opening. Taking a few extra minutes to do it right helps prevent water damage and repeat work later.

To get GE Sealants’ products for your home improvement project, visit these fine retailers in the U.S. or Canada.

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Professional results, even faster How to quickly apply silicone sealant without sacrificing quality

For large kitchens and multi-unit bath installs, even small inefficiencies can stretch your schedule and shrink margins. This guide shows how to stage mobile tool stations, use no-stall dispensing hacks, run single-pass finishing workflows, and other field-tested tactics to apply silicone sealant faster while meeting ASTM-rated specs.

Why speed and quality can coexist

Quality isn’t optional, but neither is speed. Every minute saved per bead compounds fast: 1,000 beads across a condo block or hotel tower equals 16+ crew-hours you either waste or win back.

The problem? Most callbacks stem from adhesive or cohesive failures—either the bead never bonds or fails to flex under movement. That’s why ASTM C920 ratings matter. They define what quality really means: full adhesion, a continuous seal, and elasticity that matches joint movement.

When you apply silicone sealant without respecting those factors, speed turns into a liability. Respect them with the right tools and chemistry, and speed becomes your competitive edge.

Organize your sealant station

Speed starts before the caulking gun’s even loaded. The fastest crews don’t just know how to apply silicone sealant—they know how to stage for it.

Build a mobile sealant station around a three-zone cart: one for cleaning tools and solvents, one for cutting and prepping cartridges, and one for tooling and finish supplies. Use color-coded cartridges to match room assignments and avoid mix-ups.

Keep cordless and bulk caulking guns at 68°F to 72°F for consistent flow. Note that colder sealant thickens under pressure and stalls bead control. Same goes for spare batteries—rotate them between room temperature and charger banks.

Contractor applies GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant to an interior glass shower corner.
Contractor kneeling inside a glass shower, applying GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant with a manual caulk gun.

For wet-surface speed and spec-grade reliability, stage Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant. It’s 30-minute water-ready and Class 50 flexible, so it stays tight even on moving surfaces.

ASTM C920 Class 50 silicones stretch ±50%. This is very important when working on large-format shower walls.

Surface readiness checklist

Your bead is only as good as your bond. Before any sealant touches the joint:

  • Strip failed material with the GE Sealant Remover Tool (avoid razors that gouge)
  • Wipe the surface with isopropyl alcohol and ensure it’s completely dry
  • Stage closed-cell backer rods by joint width to avoid mid-application delays

Every missed step here shows up as a callback later.

No-stall dispensing: cartridge & nozzle pro caulking hacks

Bead flow starts at the nozzle. For full control, cut your tip at a 45° angle, depending on the width of the joint. Always purge before your first squeeze to clear air pockets.

Pre-warm cartridges to 75°F to reduce trigger force by up to 20%, especially on cold job sites. The smoother the flow, the less wrist strain and start-stop drag you’ll deal with.

Use the GE Cartridge Opener & Smoothing Tool to cut nozzles, puncture seals, and load cartridges in one move. It replaces two tools with one.

On high-output days (200+ linear feet), switch to pneumatic or battery-assisted guns. Label spare nozzles by colors to prevent mismatches.

These pro caulking hacks save you time on every run.

Backer-rod depth control

Joint prep isn’t just surface work. You must manage what’s underneath to support the bead. For joints wider than 1/4 inch, maintain a 2:1 width-to-depth ratio to avoid overfilling.

Insert a closed-cell polyethylene backer rod to set depth and let the bead flex with the joint. This reduces waste and ensures the sealant bonds only to the joint flanks.

Tooling for perfection when applying silicone sealant

The clock starts the moment the bead hits the joint. GE kitchen-and-bath silicone sealants give you about a 30-minute skin window. Tool within the first 5 to 10 minutes (before the skin starts forming) to prevent drag or adhesion loss.

Apply steady, even pressure while gunning, and shape the bead for maximum joint movement and adhesion. Use the GE Smoothing Tool to seat the bead and carve a clean profile in one smooth pass.

On high-spec work, run a field adhesion test after the sealant has cured according to the product instructions. Beads that flex without pull-away confirm proper surface prep, adhesion, and joint movement performance.

Smart product selection for speed and reliability

Selecting the right sealant drives your install pace and performance. Choose a 100% silicone product where permanent flexibility and water exposure are critical—think tubs, surrounds, and shower pans. Opt for a hybrid when you need fast paint-over on trim and panels.

Here’s the GE ladder built for pros:

Choose based on water exposure, paintability, and cure time to guarantee speed and lasting performance.

A contractor applying GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant along a glass panel and tile joint.
Applying GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant along a glass panel base on a tiled floor.

Sequencing for scale: how crews apply faster across units

Pair off your crew to leapfrog rooms: one technician applies the silicone sealant bead, the other tools one to two rooms behind. This pro caulking hack keeps every bead inside its tooling window and maximizes forward momentum.

Log product lot codes, date, and time per unit for warranty traceability. Additionally, stagger the cure windows so tile or paint crews follow 30 minutes behind without the risk of rework.

On well-coordinated jobs, two pros can seal over 30 tubs in a single shift.

Post-install checks and cleanup

Before your crew rolls out, take one last walk-through and inspect every joint. Confirm a continuous bead.

If you spot smears or ridges, wipe them immediately with a dry lint-free cloth or one lightly moistened with mineral spirits. If needed, retool with the GE Smoothing Tool while the bead is still open.

Always pull masking tape on a wet bead to leave sharp, tear-free edges. A flawless finish here eliminates callbacks.

Common speed-killers when applying silicone sealant and how to avoid them

Even seasoned crews lose time to avoidable missteps. Here are the top culprits on fast-turn jobs:

  • Cold cartridges: Store tubes in an insulated box or inside the cab. Cold silicone flows slower and wrecks bead control.
  • Over-extrusion waste: Refine your trigger rhythm. Excess sealant means more tooling and cleanup.
  • Unclean guns: Dried sealant in the barrel spring causes stop-start ridges. For silicones or hybrid SMPs, wipe guns with a mineral spirits rag (spot-test plastics first).
  • Skipped deglossing: Glossy cultured marble kills adhesion. Always prep the glossy surface with isopropyl alcohol or a light mechanical abrasion.
  • Cured nozzle plugs: Trim off 1/2 inch of the nozzle and purge to clear partially cured silicone.
  • Wrong air pressure: Start pneumatic guns at 70 psi to 80 psi, then test the flow. Too much pressure causes bubbles. Too little stalls the bead.
  • Poor lighting: Clamp a 2,000-lumen task light to your work area to catch skips before they cure.
  • Unlabeled cartridges: Tape the shoulders of white and clear tubes to prevent mid-job mix-ups.
  • Bad bead sequence: Map your route to avoid crossing fresh beads. Maintain a consistent clockwise or counterclockwise path.

These small tweaks result in big time savings, and each one ensures quality while you apply silicone sealant at pace.

You don’t have to choose between speed and quality. With organized prep, the right sealant tools for pros, and GE’s silicone sealants, you can get the job done fast without risking callbacks.

Find GE Sealants near you in the U.S. or Canada.

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Sealant know-how for confident DIY results Top 9 mistakes DIYers make when using silicone sealant

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

Sealing a backsplash or tub edge seems simple, until the bead peels, mold creeps in, or your paint won’t stick. The culprit usually isn’t the sealant. It’s how it’s applied. We’ll walk through the top silicone sealant mistakes DIYers make and how to avoid them using tested techniques, smart timing, and the right GE products. Whether you’re tackling your first gap or reworking a failed joint, this beginner caulking guide gives you the know-how to get it right.

GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath (ASTM C920 Class 50) flexes ±50 % with tubs and tile to stop cracks before they start.

Mistake #1: skipping a deep clean on initial application

When you’re sealing a new joint, mold streaks, peeling beads, and failed adhesion usually trace back to one root problem: unclean surfaces. Silicone sealant needs a spotless, dry surface to bond properly the first time.

Before your first bead, prep like a pro:

  • Remove all old caulk.
  • Never layer over residue.
  • Use the GE Sealant Remover Tool for a clean pull.
  • Scrub the joint with isopropyl alcohol to clear out soap scum, mildew, or dust.
  • Let the area dry completely before applying new sealant.

Skipping these steps is one of the most common silicone sealant mistakes beginners make. For a full walkthrough, see our guide on how to remove old caulk.

Mistake #2: choosing the wrong product

Choosing the wrong product leads to cracking, leaks, or unpaintable joints. To avoid project failure, match your sealant to your project’s demands:

If the label says “water cleanup,” it’s acrylic and is not waterproof, and not suited for tubs, showers, or humid environments.

Mistake #3: using expired or poorly stored tubes

Expired or poorly stored tubes are among the most common silicone sealant mistakes, leading to clogged nozzles, vinegar-like odors, or sealant that never cures.

Silicone sealant has a shelf life of 12 to 24 months unopened and performs best when stored between 40°F and 90°F. Exposure to extreme temperatures breaks down the sealant, causing clogs and cure failures.

Before you load the caulking gun, check:

  • Date stamp on the tube to confirm it hasn’t expired
  • Odor—fresh sealant smells mild, not sharp
  • No hardened plug in the nozzle

Consider writing the open date on each tube with a permanent marker to track freshness.

Mistake #4: cutting the nozzle too wide

A wide nozzle cut floods the joint with too much sealant, leading to a sloppy bead, waste, and tough cleanup. Worse, overfilled joints often cure unevenly or trap air.

Demonstrating how to cut a GE sealant nozzle at a 45° angle for accurate sealant application.
This image shows the proper way to cut a GE sealant cartridge nozzle at a 45° angle to ensure clean, precise application.

Here’s the fix:

Note that control starts at the tip, and a clean cut means a cleaner bead.

Mistake #5: over-applying and overworking the bead

A person applying GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant bead with proper trigger pressure for a clean finish.
DIYer applying a bead of GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant to a glass shower panel at floor level, demonstrating precise angle and steady pressure.

Thick beads don’t seal better—they sink, skin late, and often trap air bubbles. Tool the bead too many times, and you risk smearing the joint or lifting the sealant entirely.

Here’s the pro move:

  • Apply steady, even pressure on the trigger
  • Smooth the bead once using the GE Sealant Smoothing Tool
  • Wipe away any excess for a crisp edge

One clean pass is all it takes.

Mistake #6: skipping backer rod in wide joints

If your joint is deeper than 1/4 inch, filling it with silicone sealant alone won’t hold. It wastes product, creates stress points, and often tears.

A backer rod is a round foam insert that controls depth and lets the sealant flex with movement.

How to use a backer rod:

  • Measure the joint depth. For gaps over 1/4 inch, press backer rod in until it sits just below the surface.
  • Keep its round shape—don’t compress the rod flat.
  • Apply sealant over the rod for a durable, flexible bond.

Most tubs shift slightly. Backer rods absorb that movement so your bead stays crack-free.

Mistake #7: applying silicone sealant in the wrong weather conditions

Even the best silicone sealant can fail when the weather conditions aren’t right. Extreme cold, high humidity, or dew can stall curing—or even wash the bead out completely.

Check the application window before you caulk:

Avoid application if:

  • Rain, frost, or heavy dew is likely within the next 24 hours
  • Surfaces feel damp, especially at dawn or dusk
  • Ambient or substrate temps fall outside the ranges above

Note that Advanced and Supreme formulas shed light splashes after 30 minutes. Pro Seal Max can face rain the moment you finish the bead, but only if temperatures are within its window.

Silicone and hybrid sealants need air flow, warmth, and a dry surface to cure correctly. Plan your project around both outdoor forecasts and indoor humidity levels.

Mistake #8: touching the silicone sealant before it skins

Rupturing the skin too soon ruins the finish, traps dirt, and risks tearing the bead. Let the sealant form its protective layer before you test it.

Know your skin times:

  • Silicone sealant: skins over in about 30 minutes
  • Hybrid formulas: skin in as little as 15 minutes

To get it right:

  • Mask off edges, apply your sealant, and tool fast.
  • Then, hands off. Don’t touch or smooth again once the bead settles.

If it looks wet, it’s still curing. Give the sealant time to form its skin before any contact.

Mistake #9: rushing water exposure

Exposing new sealant to water too soon is one of the most common silicone sealant mistakes. It can wash uncured material from the joint, trap moisture behind the bead, and lead to mold or more repairs.

Check each sealant’s water-ready window before you clean, shower, or rinse:

  • Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant: water-ready in 30 minutes, fully cures in about 24 hours
  • Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant: splash-safe in 30 minutes, fully cures in about 24 hours
  • Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath Sealant: water-ready immediately, fully cures in 24–72 hours

Let the bead cure fully before any cleaning, scrubbing, or showering.

Ready to seal like a pro? Avoid the mistakes and get pro-grade results with GE products. Find them at a store near you in the U.S. or Canada.

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Interior Seal Silicone Sealant

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Because better painting starts with better prep, learn how to seal smart and paint clean Should you seal or paint first? Here’s what DIYers need to know

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

If you’re getting ready to paint, you might be wondering whether to seal or paint first. In most cases, sealing gaps and joints before painting gives you a cleaner, longer-lasting finish. With the right prep and a paintable sealant, your project will not only look better but also stand up to wear and moisture over time.

For outdoor projects, GE Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk is a reliable choice. This acrylic caulk is paintable, weather-resistant, and ideal for sealing gaps in siding, trim, and around windows or doors.

For indoor work, Seal & Fill Multi-Purpose Kitchen & Bath Caulk is designed specifically for painting prep, as it is low odor, easy to apply, and paint-ready quickly.

Should you caulk before painting?

When it comes to painting prep, sealing should almost always come first. Applying caulk or sealant before painting helps fill gaps, smooth transitions, and block out moisture, all of which lead to a cleaner finish and better adhesion.

If you paint first and then try to apply sealant, you’ll likely end up with uneven lines, visible seams, or cracking where materials move. Sealing also helps prevent air leaks and moisture intrusion around joints and trim, especially in areas like baseboards, window frames, and exterior siding.

Once sealed, paint can cover both surfaces in a single, seamless layer. However, it’s important to use a sealant that’s labeled paintable and to let it cure fully before picking up a brush. Non-paintable products like 100% silicone won’t bond well with paint and can cause flaking or discoloration. When in doubt, check the label for compatibility and dry times to avoid peeling or uneven coverage.

Read our article on kitchen-specific sealing and painting tips if you want to learn more.

What to seal before painting?

Before you start painting, take time to inspect the surfaces for gaps, seams, or joints that need sealing. Common areas include:

  • Corners where trim meets walls
  • Baseboards
  • Window frames
  • Door frames
  • Nail holes in molding

On exterior surfaces, check for cracks in siding, gaps around utility penetrations, and seams between boards or panels. Sealing these areas creates a smoother appearance and prevents air or moisture from seeping behind the surface.

You can use the light test, which involves shining a flashlight along edges, or run your finger along seams to feel for gaps that might not be obvious at a glance. Make sure the surface is clean, dry, and stable before applying any sealant. Avoid sealing over loose paint, soft wood, or damp areas, as this can lead to poor adhesion and early failure.

Painting prep tips: choosing the right paintable sealant

A photo of GE Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk.
GE Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk.

For outdoor projects, GE Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk is a reliable choice. This acrylic caulk is paintable, weather-resistant, and ideal for sealing gaps in siding, trim, and around windows or doors. It adheres well to common exterior materials and holds up against seasonal changes.

Check out our article on exterior home maintenance to learn more.

For indoor work, Seal & Fill Multi-Purpose Kitchen & Bath Caulk is designed specifically for painting prep. It’s low odor, easy to apply, and paint-ready quickly, making it a go-to option for sealing interior trim, baseboards, and wall gaps.

In any case, always check the product label to confirm that the sealant is labeled as paintable and to understand the required cure time before applying paint. Avoid using non-paintable sealants like 100% silicone in paintable areas, as paint will not adhere properly. Using the correct product helps prevent peeling, cracking, or discoloration and will give your final coat a cleaner, more uniform appearance.

How to seal before painting: step-by-step

Sealing before painting helps ensure a smooth, professional-looking finish. Follow these steps to get clean results and long-lasting performance from your paintable sealant.

A photo of a homeowner removing old sealant with GE’s Sealant Remover Tool.
A homeowner removes old sealant with GE’s Sealant Remover Tool.
  1. Clean the surface Remove dust, dirt, and any old or cracked sealant from the area using a damp cloth and utility knife or GE’s Sealant Remover Tool. Let the surface dry completely before moving on.
  2. Select the right sealant Use a paintable sealant suited to your project. GE Exterior Seal is ideal for outdoor use, while Seal & Fill Multi-Purpose Kitchen & Bath Caulk works well for interior jobs.
  3. Cut the nozzle Trim the tip of the sealant tube at a 45-degree angle to match the size of the gap. For products with a foil seal, puncture it using a nail or similar tool.
  4. Apply painter’s tape Mask both sides of the gap if you’re sealing along finished surfaces or trim. This helps keep lines neat and prevents excess caulk on visible surfaces.
  5. Apply the sealant Squeeze a steady, even bead of sealant into the gap. Work slowly and keep the angle consistent to avoid skips or bubbles.
  6. Tool the bead Smooth the sealant immediately using a gloved finger or GE’s Sealant Smoothing Tool. Press it into the joint for a tight seal and a clean finish.
  7. Remove the tape and let it cure Pull the painter’s tape away while the sealant is still wet. Allow the sealant to cure fully according to the label before applying paint. This process usually takes a few hours to a full day.

Common mistakes to avoid

Before you start your sealing project, beware of these common sealing mistakes:

  • Avoid painting over sealant that hasn’t fully cured. This can lead to bubbling, cracking, or poor adhesion.
  • Always check the product label for proper cure times and paint compatibility.
  • Don’t use interior caulk on exterior surfaces, as it won’t withstand weather exposure.
  • Overfilling gaps or skipping the smoothing step can leave behind messy lines or weak seals.
  • Never seal over damp, dirty, or unstable surfaces, as this can prevent the sealant from bonding properly.

To get GE Sealants’ products for your home improvement project, visit these fine retailers in the U.S. or Canada.

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Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk

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Not all pipe leaks mean major repairs—some just need a smart seal How to seal leaking pipes without replacing them

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

Not every pipe leak calls for a full replacement. With the right materials and approach, many small leaks—especially at joints or in copper and PVC lines—can be sealed safely by a DIYer. This guide explains how and when to seal leaking pipes and when it’s best to call a professional.

Hairline cracks, slow drips, and leaks around pipe penetrations often occur under sinks, behind toilets, or where pipes enter walls. If the pipe isn’t corroded or cracked through, sealing with tape, thread compound, or silicone is usually effective.

When can you safely seal a leaking pipe?

You can safely seal a leaking pipe when the leak is minor and the pipe is structurally sound. Common cases include:

  • Hairline cracks in copper or PVC
  • Slow drips at threaded joints
  • Leaks around pipe penetrations in low-pressure indoor systems

These issues often occur under sinks, behind toilets, or where pipes enter walls. If the pipe isn’t corroded or cracked through, sealing with tape, thread compound, or silicone is usually effective. However, sealing is not a permanent solution for damaged or failing pipes. Avoid DIY repairs if the pipe is visibly deteriorated, the leak is forceful, or there’s evidence of past failed fixes. For high-pressure systems, gas lines, or leaks hidden inside walls, always call a licensed plumber instead of attempting a patch.

Tools and materials you’ll need

Before sealing a leaking pipe, gather the right tools and materials. In older homes with threaded copper or PVC fittings, you’ll need PTFE thread-sealing tape and pipe thread sealant—AKA pipe dope. A wire brush and a clean rag help prep the surface.

A photo of GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath.
GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath.

Keep an adjustable wrench on hand for tightening fittings without damaging them. For structural cracks that are not active leaks, use epoxy putty or a silicone-based sealant like GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath. In outdoor or utility areas, GE Pro Seal Max Window & Door is a better fit. You may also need compression fittings for temporary repairs, especially in hard-to-reach areas or emergencies. While homeowners commonly apply sealant with a gloved finger, consider getting a smoother application with GE’s Sealant Smoothing Tool or Cartridge Opener and Smoothing Tool.

Learn more about choosing the right silicone sealant for your DIY home repairs.

Step-by-step: how to seal a leaking pipe

  1. Clean the pipe thoroughly Before applying any sealant, remove dirt, rust, old tape, or debris. Use a clean rag and a wire brush to scrub the area. A smooth, dry surface helps sealants adhere to the pipe.
  2. Choose the right transition fitting If you’re connecting copper to PVC or replacing a leaking joint, ensure to use a specialty transition fitting designed for dissimilar materials. Copper and PVC expand at different rates and have incompatible chemical properties; a standard fitting won’t hold reliably over time. Use a male-threaded PVC adapter approved for copper connections, and confirm it matches your pipe size and is pressure-rated for household plumbing. Failing to use the right transition can lead to leaks or premature joint failure.
  3. Wrap with PTFE tape or Apply Pipe thread Sealant

    Use high-quality PTFE thread-sealing tape only on threaded connections and not on joints intended for soldering. Wrap the tape around the male threads 6 to 10 times in the direction of the threading to prevent unwrapping during tightening. Avoid using thin or inexpensive tape, which may tear or compress under pressure.Instead, choose professional-grade, thicker PTFE tape for a more secure and long-lasting seal. For soldered copper joints, skip the tape entirely and follow proper soldering procedures.

    You can also apply pipe dope over the threads on its own or in combination with tape. The combination of tape and dope provides both coverage and flexibility under pressure. For pipes leading to drinking water outlets, you must use an NSF-certified sealant approved for potable water.

  4. Don’t overtighten Tighten the joint with an adjustable wrench just until snug. PVC is softer than metal and can crack if overtightened. Let the sealants do the work, not brute force.
  5. Use schedule 40 PVC unless otherwise needed Schedule 40 PVC is sufficient for most residential water lines and easier to work with than schedule 80. Unless you’re sealing a high-pressure or commercial line, schedule 40 is the standard.
  6. Thread the pipes together carefully First, line up the male and female fittings and hand-tighten. Make sure the threads catch evenly—cross-threading can ruin the joint and lead to future leaks.
  7. Let sealants cure Follow the manufacturer’s instructions for cure time. Many sealants are set in 30 minutes, but a full cure may take longer depending on temperature and humidity. Don’t pressure-test the line until the seal is fully set.
  8. Pressurize and check for leaks Once cured, slowly turn the water back on and inspect the area. Look for dripping, seepage, or movement in the joint. If dry after a few minutes under pressure, your seal is likely good.
  9. Consider temporary or backup solutions If you’re short on time or need a stopgap fix, epoxy putty, mechanical pipe clamps, or push fittings can provide a fast, tool-free seal—just make sure to monitor the area regularly.

When to use epoxy putty or compression couplings

Epoxy putty and compression couplings are useful when you need a quick or low-tool solution. Epoxy putty works well for sealing pinhole leaks or hairline cracks, especially in hard-to-reach areas or when shutting off the water isn’t practical. It molds around the pipe and hardens in place, creating a waterproof barrier.

Push fittings are ideal for joining copper, CPVC, or PEX pipes without soldering or gluing. They’re especially helpful for emergency fixes or temporary repairs. Both options can hold up well but should be checked regularly and are not substitutes for addressing major pipe damage.

When to call a plumber

Call a licensed plumber if the leak is anything more than a slow drip, the pipe is cracked or corroded through, or repairs have failed in the past. Professional help is also necessary for high-pressure lines, gas pipes, or leaks inside walls or foundations. If you see signs of water damage, mold, or structural wear near the pipe, don’t risk a temporary fix. A plumber can assess the full extent of the issue and recommend a lasting solution.

To get GE Sealants’ products for your home improvement project, visit these fine retailers in the U.S. or Canada.