QRCODE - Sealant Smoothing ToolQRCODE - Sealant Remover ToolQRCODE - Grout Whitener PenQRCODE Cartridge Opener Smoothing ToolQRCODE - Interior SealQRCODE - Interior FillQRCODE - Exterior SealGE AccessoriesFrequently Asked QuestionsQRcode Pro Seal Max K&BQRcode Pro Seal Max W&DSealed For Good Insulating FoamPRO / DIY QR Code Landing Page - Advanced Silicone 2 WDPRO / DIY QR Code Landing Page - Advanced Silicone 2 Kitchen & BathPRO / DIY QR Code Landing Page - Supreme Silicone WDPRO / DIY QR Code Landing Page - Supreme Silicone KBPRO / DIY QR Code Landing Page - All PurposePRO / DIY QR Code Landing Page - Tub and TileWeatherizationPro Market SweepstakesConfirmationSilicone SealantSealed For Good Window & DoorSealed for Good Kitchen & BathtestingSkills USA 2023 - Post EventJC TestAcrylic Caulks & SealantsPaintable SealantsSilicone SealantsReNew - ShoppableAdvanced Acrylic - LowesFoam - ShoppableSustainabilitySkills USAWarrantyRe-NewRe-New ProRe-NewThank you for getting in touch with GE SealantsSupreme SiliconeSupreme Silicone at Lowe'sSupreme Silicone At Home DepotRepair and PrepareInstagramCA Privacy NoticeFill In the GapsKitchen & BathInsulating FoamGE-Branded Insulating Foams at WalmartGE-Branded Silicone Sealants at The Home DepotGE-Branded Silicone Sealants at Lowe's Home ImprovementGE-Branded Acrylic SealantsGE-Branded Silicone SealantsGE-Branded Hybrid SealantsSealants for Window & Door ProjectsCaulks and Sealants for Kitchen & Bath ProjectsCaulks and Sealants for Seal & Paint Projects404Product Disclaimers & GuaranteesHomeContact UsNewsroomPress ReleasesAll ProductsOur ProductsWindow & DoorKitchen & BathSeal & PaintInsulating FoamPrivacy PolicySpecialtyProjects & How-To'sTerms and ConditionsTrademarks and Legal NoticesWhere to Buy GE Products
Pest Block Insulating Foam
Interior Seal Silicone Sealant
Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk
Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath
Pro Seal Max Window & Door
Supreme Silicone Window & Door Sealant
Advanced Silicone 2® Window & Door Sealant
All Purpose Silicone 1® Sealant
Paintable Silicone Supreme Window & Door Sealant
Siliconized Advanced Acrylic Window & Door Sealant
Siliconized Multi-Purpose Acrylic Window & Door Caulk
Seal & Fill Multi-Purpose Window & Door Caulk
Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant
Advanced Silicone 2® Kitchen & Bath Sealant
Tub & Tile Silicone 1® Sealant
Paintable Silicone Supreme Kitchen & Bath Sealant
Siliconized Advanced Acrylic Kitchen & Bath Sealant
Siliconized Multi-Purpose Acrylic Kitchen & Bath Caulk
Re-New
Painter’s Pro Quick Dry Siliconized Acrylic
Painter’s Pro Siliconized Acrylic Caulk
Painter’s Caulk
Gutter Silicone 2® Sealant
Concrete Silicone 2® Sealant
Metal Silicone 2® Sealant
Project Filter
  • location
    Insulating Foam
    Kitchen & Bath
    Paint Projects
    Specialty
    Windows, Doors, Siding & Trim
  • project-type
    All
    Window & Door
    Kitchen & Bath
    Seal & Paint
    Insulating Foam
    Specialty
  • color
    Almond
    Black
    Brown
    Clear
    Light Gray
    Metallic Gray
    White
  • formulas
    Acrylic
    Insulating Foams
    Paintable Silicone
    Silicone
    Siliconized Acrylic
  • performance
    Not Paintable
    Paintable
  • product-type
    Adhesives
    Caulks & Sealants
    Specialty Products
  • application
    Can
    Cartridge
    Pen
    Squeeze Tube
  • gap_width
    Gaps 1"-3"
    Gaps less than 1"
    Window & Door
  • humidity-level
    Extensive Humidity
    Normal Humidity
  • product_finder
    Pathway 1
    Pathway 2
    Pathway 3
    Pathway 4
    Pathway 5
    Pathway 6
    Pathway 7

Contact Form

Pest Block Insulating Foam

Contact Form

The right sealant protects your countertops and your peace of mind The best countertop sealant for seams and backsplashes

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

Choosing the right countertop sealant is key to a clean, durable finish in your kitchen. Whether you’re sealing granite, tile, or painted drywall, GE offers silicone and hybrid options to match your material and style.

Why sealing your backsplash and countertop seams matters

The joint where your countertop meets the backsplash might look small, but it’s one of the most leak-prone areas in your kitchen. Without the right countertop sealant, it can let in water, steam, and food debris that quickly lead to mold growth, laminate swelling, or stained stone.

If you’re sealing a backsplash made of tile or glass, or working around materials like granite or painted drywall, the wrong product can do more harm than good. Some sealants shrink, crack, or discolor premium surfaces over time.

Using the right sealant for your countertop creates a watertight barrier that keeps grease and grime out, and gives your kitchen a clean, professional-grade finish that lasts.

The seam between your countertop and backsplash is a high-risk zone for leaks, stains, and mold. Using the right GE countertop sealant (waterproof, flexible, and mold-resistant) protects your surfaces and preserves a clean, finished look.

Applying GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant along a backsplash seam using a caulk gun. Painter’s tape is visible on both sides of the joint.
Applying GE Supreme Silicone to a countertop backsplash seam with painter’s tape.

What makes a great countertop sealant?

Your countertop sees daily water spray, temperature swings, and constant cleanup. A reliable countertop sealant does more than just fill a gap. It seals tight, stays put, and works with your surfaces, not against them.

Here’s what to look for:

  • 100% waterproof: This seam is inches from your sink. Choose a sealant rated for wet zones (not just damp areas) to avoid swelling, staining, or failure over time.
  • Mold and mildew resistance: Moisture builds quickly behind your backsplash. A mold-resistant formula keeps bacteria from growing where you can’t see or scrub.
  • Neutral-cure chemistry: If you’re working with granite, marble, or stainless trim, steer clear of sealants that release acetic acid. Neutral-cure silicone won’t corrode metal or stain natural stone.
  • ASTM-rated flexibility (Class 50 or 35): Homes move. So do countertops. A flexible sealant adapts to seasonal changes, so seams don’t crack, split, or peel.
  • Non-sag application: For vertical seams like backsplash joints, pick a formula that stays put during application and tooling.
  • Cure speed that fits your schedule: Some silicone for backsplash applications is water-ready in 30 minutes. If you plan to paint over joints (especially along drywall or trim), hybrids like GE’s SMP technology are paintable in just one hour.

Which countertop sealant is right for your surface and finish?

Whether you’re working with granite, painted drywall, tile, or trim, GE has a formula designed for your finish goals and installation needs.

If you’re sealing natural stone (granite, marble, or quartz)

Use: Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant

Natural stone needs extra care. Some sealants can stain or etch sensitive materials. Supreme Silicone is a neutral cure, so it won’t react with granite or marble. You get Class 50 flexibility to handle seasonal shifts, and it’s water-ready in 30 minutes.

If your seam meets painted drywall, cabinetry, or trim

Use: Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath Sealant (SMP Hybrid)

You need paintability for backsplash joints that run into painted walls or trim. This hybrid formula is ready for painting in just one hour, bonds to damp surfaces, and moves with your home. This means seams won’t crack as things shift. This SMP hybrid is ideal during remodels when time and color matching count.

If you’re sealing tile or glass backsplashes

Use: Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant

Backsplash seams are vertical and often exposed to steam, splatter, and daily wipe-downs. This neutral-cure silicone for backsplash holds its shape during application, so it won’t sag or slump as you use it. It resists mold in damp environments and is water-ready in just 30 minutes, making it a reliable pick for clean lines and fast finishes.

Note: For natural stone or high-movement seams, step up to a Class 50 sealant like Supreme Silicone for added flexibility and stain resistance.

If you’re doing a touch-up or sealing a small seam

Use: Interior Seal Silicone Sealant (2.8 oz squeeze tube)

For quick jobs or tight spaces, this compact 100% silicone sealant delivers pro-grade results. It’s precise, clean to apply, and ideal for minor gaps. That said, this formula isn’t rated for wide joints or areas with frequent movement—use a full-performance sealant for those.

How to apply countertop sealant like a pro

Use this five-step method to get a countertop bead that bonds tightly, tools clean, and lasts:

  1. Remove the old sealant and prep the surface Start with the GE Sealant Remover Tool—it scrapes out old material without gouging your countertop. Then wipe the joint with isopropyl alcohol to eliminate residue. Soap-based cleaners leave a film that breaks bonds, so don’t use them.
  2. Mask both sides of the joint Use painter’s tape to create a crisp line and protect nearby surfaces. You’ll get a cleaner finish with less cleanup.
  3. Cut the nozzle and apply a smooth bead Use the GE Cartridge Opener & Smoothing Tool for a clean, angled cut. For long seams, use a caulk gun. For tight areas, a squeeze tube offers better control. Keep the bead steady and consistent.
  4. Tool the bead within 5–10 minutes Press the sealant into the joint using a gloved finger or your countertop sealant smoothing tool to shape a uniform bead.
  5. Let it cure completely Even quick-set formulas need time to fully bond. Most GE silicone and hybrid sealants reach full cure in 24 hours. Don’t scrub or stress the joint until then.

Cure tips and timing

Each GE formula cures on a different timeline. Here’s how to stay on schedule:

  • Most GE silicone sealants are water-ready in 30 minutes. This means water exposure, not cleaning. Wait the full 24 hours for a fully cured, durable seal.
  • Pro Seal Max is paintable in one hour. This hybrid formula also tolerates early moisture, making it ideal when conditions aren’t perfect.
  • Always check the label. Temperature, humidity, and joint size affect cure times. Plan around these to avoid premature failure.

Frequently asked questions

What’s the difference between acrylic and silicone for backsplashes?

Silicone sealant is 100% waterproof and stays permanently flexible, making it ideal for wet zones like your backsplash. Acrylic caulks, on the other hand, shrink, crack, or break down in damp environments.

Can I paint over the countertop sealant?

Only GE hybrid formulas, like Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath Sealant, are paintable. Silicone sealants (including those rated for kitchen and bath) are not.

How long should I wait before using the sink?

Most GE silicone for backsplash and countertop applications is water-ready in 30 minutes. But for heavy water exposure or scrubbing, wait 24 hours to ensure a fully cured, long-lasting seal.

Need the best sealant for your backsplash project? Find a store near you in the U.S. or Canada.

Contact Form

Ordinary bathroom sealant won’t cut it in high humidity, so you need waterproof protection. The best sealant for bathrooms and other high-humidity areas

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

If you’ve ever noticed peeling, cracking, or moldy silicone sealant around your sink, tub, or shower, you’re not alone. Bathrooms are among the most demanding environments in your home in terms of moisture and temperature fluctuations, making it crucial to find the right products if you want long-lasting protection. Whether you’re replacing old caulk, sealing a new installation, or touching up problem spots, this guide breaks down how to find the best sealant for bathrooms.

If you’re using anything other than a mold-resistant silicone sealant specifically designed for wet environments, you’re likely to run into trouble sooner rather than later.

Old, moldy bathroom sealant.
An image of dirty or moldy sealant in the bathroom.

Why regular sealants fail in bathrooms

Not all sealants are created equal. Some are formulated for general indoor use and can’t handle the steam, water spray, and temperature changes that define a typical bathroom environment.

Common problems with the wrong type of sealant include:

  • Mold and mildew growth: Non-specialized sealants can become breeding grounds for mold and mildew.
  • Cracking or shrinking: In high-humidity areas, lower-quality caulks dry out and break apart.
  • Poor adhesion: Standard silicone sealant may not adhere well to slick surfaces, such as glazed tile, glass, or acrylic tubs.

If you’re using anything other than a mold-resistant silicone sealant specifically designed for wet environments, you’re likely to run into trouble sooner rather than later.

What to look for in the best sealant for bathrooms

When shopping for the best bathroom sealant, make sure it checks the following boxes.

1. Waterproof protection

A bathroom sealant must withstand daily water exposure without breaking down. This is where waterproof silicone caulk outshines alternatives that may absorb water over time. Waterproof silicone creates a tight, long-lasting seal that prevents water from seeping behind tiles or into drywall, helping prevent rot and structural damage. It remains intact even in areas with constant splashes, such as around sinks, tubs, and shower doors.

2. Mold and mildew resistance

Bathrooms are naturally prone to mold because of the regular humidity they face. That’s why a mold-resistant caulk is essential. These products contain specialized additives that inhibit the growth of mold, helping keep your bathroom looking and smelling fresh.

Without these additives, the sealant can quickly discolor or develop black spots, even if the seal hasn’t failed. Mold-resistant properties are essential in areas such as corners and horizontal surfaces where water tends to accumulate.

3. Flexible and durable

In a bathroom, surfaces expand and contract due to changes in temperature and humidity. For example, a daily cycle includes hot showers followed by cool-down periods. Sealants that dry hard and brittle are likely to crack and pull away from surfaces over time.

Silicone sealant remains flexible after curing, allowing it to move with the building materials and maintain a watertight barrier. This flexibility helps them resist the kind of fractures that lead to slow leaks and hidden damage.

4. Adheres to nonporous surfaces

Glass, porcelain, and many types of tile are considered non-porous, meaning they don’t absorb moisture or adhesives easily. A high-performance silicone caulk is formulated to bond tightly to these kinds of slick surfaces. A high-quality silicone bathroom sealant will adhere to the surface and remain in place, even in steamy, wet conditions. This strong adhesion ensures that your caulk line doesn’t lift or develop gaps over time.

Silicone sealant loaded into caulking gun for easy application.
An image of sealant loaded into a caulk gun.

5. Ease of application and cleanup

Ultimately, ease of use is crucial, especially for DIY enthusiasts. The best sealant for bathrooms is one that’s designed for smooth application with minimal mess. They may come in squeeze tubes or be dispensed through a standard caulk gun. Many modern formulas are low-odor and water-resistant shortly after application. Some silicone caulks are also labeled as paintable or quick-drying, which helps speed up your bathroom project without sacrificing quality.

Introducing GE Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath

When it comes to sealing tubs, showers, backsplashes, and sinks, GE Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath stands out as a top performer. Explicitly designed for high-moisture areas, this bathroom sealant offers:

  • Superior mold and mildew resistance
  • Excellent adhesion to tile, glass, and metal
  • Flexible, waterproof formula as strong as silicone
  • Fast curing with long-term durability
  • Paintable for a seamless finish

Whether you’re looking for the best tub caulk or a reliable sealant for around the sink, GE Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath delivers consistent results that DIYers and professionals can trust.

Application tips for shower caulking and bathroom sealant projects

Want your next sink or shower project to last? Follow these expert tips.

1. Start with a clean surface before applying waterproof silicone caulk

Use the GE Sealant Remover Tool to scrape out old silicone sealant. It’s designed to remove all types of sealant and can be used on various surfaces, including tile. Removing old caulk is essential for a proper application. Afterward, clean the area with a mildew remover and allow it to dry completely before applying the new product.

2. Cut the cartridge or tube to the desired size

Use the GE Cartridge Opener and Smoothing Tool to open the cartridge or tube. This tool will help you snip the nozzle to the desired size, allowing for better control during application. For narrow joints, start small. You can always widen the cut if needed.

3. Apply mold-resistant caulk in a continuous bead

Work slowly and apply steady pressure for a consistent bead. Smooth it with the GE Sealant Smoothing Tool to achieve a clean, professional finish. Alternatively, you can use a gloved finger if you don’t have our tool on hand.

4. Let it cure fully

Avoid using the shower or sink for at least 24 hours (or as directed on the product packaging) to allow the product to cure fully.

FAQ

What’s the best sealant for bathrooms?

Choose a mold-resistant, waterproof product, such as GE Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath. It provides long-lasting protection in wet environments and adheres to slick surfaces, such as tile and glass.

How often should I replace bathroom caulk?

Caulk can last several years, but it’s best to inspect it regularly and replace it if you see cracking, mold, or peeling. Catching issues early can help you prevent water damage and maintain a clean finish.

Can I apply fresh silicone sealant over the old bathroom sealant?

It’s not recommended. For best adhesion and mold prevention, use the GE Sealant Remover Tool to strip the old material before applying fresh sealant.

Is there a difference between tub caulk and shower caulk?

No. The most important thing is to ensure the product used is mold-resistant and waterproof. GE Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath can handle both applications.

Looking for the best sealant for bathrooms? Find a store near you in the U.S. or Canada that carries GE products.

Contact Form

Stop leaks and protect your cabinets with smart sealing Sealing under-sink cabinets: how to prevent water damage and mold growth

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

One slow drip can ruin the base of a cabinet. It swells particleboard, softens joints, and creates the perfect conditions for mold to form in the corners you rarely check. Sealing under-sink cabinets is how you stop the damage before it starts. With the right GE tools and silicone, it’s a one-time fix that holds.

Mold prevention: why the space under your sink is a hidden threat

The space under your sink is one of the most moisture-prone zones in any home. Leaks from shutoff valves, condensation on supply lines, or splash-back from the basin collect below the surface, often unnoticed.

The real risk comes when that moisture reaches the cabinet’s core. Most under-sink construction uses MDF or particleboard—engineered wood that pulls in water fast. Left unchecked, this leads to swelling, layer separation (delamination), and softening that can compromise the base and rear panels.

Sealing the seams and joints in these zones is one of the most effective steps you can take for long-term mold prevention and reliable under-sink protection.

You may already see the signs—and they usually show up early, if you know where to look.

Moisture finds every gap. Seal your under-sink cabinet—at the joints, corners, and pipe entries—before damage sets in.

Signs you need to seal your under-sink cabinets now

If moisture has already made its way in, here’s what you’ll see:

  • The cabinet base feels soft under light pressure or shows bubbling in the finish
  • Yellowing, stains, or dark streaks around pipe entry points
  • Black spotting in corners or seams, often with a musty odor
  • Cracked, curling, or missing sealant where the cabinet meets the wall or floor

If you’re seeing even one of these signs, it’s time to seal before the damage spreads.

What sealant does (and what mats or liners don’t)

Catch trays can help, but they won’t stop water from seeping into the structure.

Sealants work at the source. They close off the tiny gaps where moisture gets in—along joints, seams, corners, and around pipe penetrations. When applied correctly, silicone sealant forms a flexible, waterproof barrier that holds against water and movement, keeping damage out of the cabinet base.

Cabinet liners or mats can trap drips, but they only delay the problem. If moisture keeps coming, it still finds its way into the wood.

For a fully waterproof under-sink cabinet, you need both a reliable seal and a regular checkup.

What to seal—and how to spot the weak points

So, where does water find its way in?

Start at the cabinet base. Run your hand along the inside seams, especially in the back corners and along the rear joint. These areas are prone to micro-separation as materials shift with age, humidity, or settling.

Next, check around every pipe that passes through the cabinet. Look for stains, light gaps, or uneven spacing around the pipe sleeve. If there’s air, moisture can follow.
Then, scan where the cabinet touches the wall and floor. These edge seams take repeated hits from mop water, basin overflow, and daily use—and they often wear down unnoticed.

Use a flashlight and sweep slowly across each joint. If you see shadows, glints of light, or hairline openings, that’s where sealing should begin.

Choosing the right GE sealant for sealing under-sink cabinets

Under-sink cabinets are damp, cramped, and rarely identical. Materials, layout, and old damage all affect how you seal. You need a product that fits the job.

For sealing base seams, corners, and common cabinet materials

GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath is ideal for the cabinet floor and back panels, especially if they’re made of MDF, laminate, or particleboard. This sealant flexes with slight material swelling and bonds to painted wood, fiberglass, and tile. The neutral-cure formula won’t stain metal fixtures, and it’s water-ready in just 30 minutes. Use it along flat joints and corners where lasting adhesion and mold prevention matter most.

For tight pipe penetrations or vibration-prone areas

Use GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath around drain lines, copper pipes, or PVC penetrations—anywhere movement, vibration, or temperature swings are common. With Class 50 flexibility and high elongation, it seals tightly without cracking as pipes shift or flex. It also won’t discolor metal finishes like chrome, bronze, or nickel.

For sealing damp surfaces after a plumbing fix

If the cabinet’s still damp after a leak or you can’t fully dry it out, go with GE Pro Seal Max Kitchen & Bath. This hybrid sealant bonds to wet or dry materials. It’s ideal for resealing the cabinet floor or back panel—right after moisture issues are addressed. It combines silicone’s moisture resistance with acrylic’s paintability, cures fast, and is ASTM C920 Class 35 (white) compliant.

Why not use caulk for sealing under-sink cabinets?

Standard acrylic caulk shrinks, cracks, and loses grip, especially in enclosed, moisture-prone areas like under your sink. GE’s silicone formulas stay flexible, seal completely, and stand up to long-term water exposure.

How to seal under-sink cabinets like a pro

Ready to seal your under-sink cabinet? Here’s how to do it.

Step 1: Prep the area

Empty the cabinet so you have full access to the floor, corners, and pipe entries. Remove any shelf liners, mats, or absorbent pads. You’ll need a clear view of every joint to inspect and seal properly.

Then use the GE Sealant Remover Tool to strip away any old sealant. Wipe all surfaces with isopropyl alcohol and let them dry completely. The sealant won’t grip if there’s residue, moisture, or dust.

Step 2: Apply the sealant 

Cut the nozzle cleanly using the cartridge opener end of the GE 2-in-1 tool. Run a steady bead of sealant along all seams, corners, and gaps around pipe entries. Keep the bead uniform—this ensures it bonds evenly and doesn’t pull apart over time.

Step 3: Smooth the bead

Use the smoothing end of the GE 2-in-1 tool, slightly moistened with water. Don’t use your finger—your skin leaves oil behind, which can break the seal and leave uneven finishes. A clean, consistent bead is what keeps water out.

Step 4: Let it cure

  • Pro Seal Max (White): Water-ready immediately after application.
  • Advanced/Supreme Silicone: Splash-safe in 30 minutes. Allow 24 hours for full cure.

Keep it sealed: ongoing under-sink protection tips

Inspect your cabinet every 6 to 12 months, or sooner if you’ve had plumbing work or spotted a small leak. Look for cracks in the sealant, signs of mold forming at the seams, or areas where the bead has pulled away. Early resealing is one of the simplest mold prevention steps you can take.

If you catch damage early, reseal it before the water gets past the seal. When cleaning, skip harsh chemicals or scouring pads. Mild cleaners protect the seal and help keep your waterproof under-sink cabinet working as it should.

Need to seal under your under-sink cabinet? Find GE Kitchen & Bath sealants and tools at a store near you in the U.S. or Canada.

Contact Form

Don’t wait for cracks—seal and protect your concrete before damage sets in! Concrete sealing 101: how to protect your outdoor spaces

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

Outdoor concrete takes a beating from the elements—especially in summer when heat and UV exposure can cause expansion, cracking, and surface wear. Without proper sealing, driveways, patios, and walkways are vulnerable to moisture intrusion and long-term damage. This guide walks you through the concrete sealing process step by step, using GE silicone sealants to help protect your surfaces before seasonal stress sets in.

Seal early and protect longer. GE Concrete Silicone Sealant provides permanent flexibility and weatherproof protection for concrete driveways, patios, and walkways. Pair it with seasonal maintenance and the GE Sealant Remover Tool to keep your outdoor concrete looking strong and sealed year after year.

Choose the right sealant

Not all sealants are intended to withstand outdoor conditions, so selecting the right one is essential for long-term protection. For concrete surfaces exposed to sun, rain, and heavy foot traffic, a 100% silicone sealant offers superior performance over acrylic or polyurethane alternatives. Look for a product specifically designed for masonry and concrete to ensure proper adhesion and durability.

Learn more about the superior durability of silicone sealants for DIY home repairs.

GE Concrete Silicone Sealant.
A photo of GE Concrete Silicone Sealant being applied to a crack in an outdoor concrete surface.

GE Concrete Silicone Sealant is engineered for exterior use, offering permanent flexibility and weatherproof protection. It resists cracking, shrinking, and UV breakdown—key issues for concrete in exposed environments. This sealant bonds well to concrete, brick, and stone and remains watertight even in extreme temperatures.

Use it on joints in driveways, walkways, patios, and around concrete stairs. It’s also effective for sealing hairline cracks or expansion joints that allow for material movement. While silicone may have a higher upfront cost than some alternatives, its longevity and performance make it a smart investment for protecting outdoor concrete surfaces from seasonal damage.

For seasonal outdoor sealing on non-concrete surfaces—such as windows, doors, siding, and trim—you can use GE All Purpose Silicone Sealant. This 100% silicone, weatherproof sealant is versatile for non-concrete areas also exposed to harsh weather conditions.

Check conditions and prepare your surfaces

Concrete sealing tips to check before you begin include choosing a dry, mild day—ideally around 70°F—with no rain in the forecast for at least 24 hours. While GE Concrete Silicone Sealant becomes water-ready in just 30 minutes, a clear forecast gives you time to clean, apply, and cure without interruption. Avoid sealing in temperatures below 32°F, as low temps can impact adhesion and cure time.

If you’re sealing new concrete, allow it to cure fully for at least 30 days. For older concrete, start by removing dirt, mold, and debris using a broom or pressure washer. If using water, let the surface dry completely before sealing. Use a wire brush to remove any loose material or old sealant, especially in cracks or joints.

Apply sealant correctly

Once the surface is clean and dry, it’s time to apply the sealant. Use a standard caulk gun and a tube of GE Concrete Silicone Sealant. Begin by cutting the nozzle at a 45-degree angle, making the opening slightly smaller than the gap you’re sealing. Pierce the inner foil seal, then load the cartridge into the caulk gun.

A homeowner uses GE’s Smoothing Tool.
A photo of a homeowner using GE’s Smoothing Tool.

Hold the gun at a consistent angle and apply steady pressure to lay a uniform bead along the joint or crack. For best results, apply sealant in manageable sections to maintain control and ensure proper adhesion. After each bead is applied, immediately smooth it using GE’s Smoothing Tool or a gloved finger. This step improves surface contact and gives the joint a clean, professional finish.

Start with a small area to make sure the bead flows properly and the surface accepts the sealant. Once you’re confident with the application rate, continue across the remaining sections. Always follow the product’s instructions for application thickness and coverage.

If gaps are larger than half an inch deep, insert a backer rod to reduce sealant waste and ensure proper joint depth. Also, remove any surface coatings or repellents that may interfere with adhesion. Once cleaned and dry, test a small area to confirm compatibility—especially if your concrete has been previously treated. A little extra prep up front helps ensure the sealant bonds properly and performs well over time.

To protect a concrete driveway or walkway, consider placing cones, tape, or signage to keep others from disturbing the fresh seal. For contractors, clearly communicate cure times and post-application care to clients to avoid premature wear. Proper curing ensures the sealant adheres fully and performs as intended—flexing with temperature changes and preventing moisture from penetrating your concrete surfaces.

Need cleanup tips? Learn how to remove sealant from your hands after a job.

Maintain and monitor

Sealing your concrete is only part of the long-term protection plan—regular maintenance is just as important. Start by checking sealed joints every 6 to 12 months for signs of wear, such as cracking, peeling, or separation from the surface. High-traffic areas and spots exposed to direct sun or standing water may degrade faster and need attention sooner.

Keep the sealed areas clean and free of debris that could weaken the bond over time. When it’s time to reseal, remove the old sealant—with GE’s recommended Sealant Remover Tool—and reapply. By monitoring and maintaining these joints consistently, you’ll extend the life of your concrete surfaces and save on repair costs.

To get GE Sealants’ products for your home improvement project, visit these fine retailers in the U.S. or Canada.

Contact Form

No more moldy caulk lines How to recaulk your bathtub for a fresh, mold-free finish

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

If the caulk around your tub is cracked, peeling, or showing signs of mold, it’s failed. Water is slipping behind the wall, soaking drywall, and feeding mold where you can’t see it. With a few tools and the right sealant, you can recaulk your bathtub and stop the damage before it spreads.

Why recaulking the bathtub is important

Once the caulk begins to break down, water finds its way into the smallest gaps and seeps behind the wall. From there, it soaks drywall, swells subflooring, and feeds mold in places like backer board joints or behind tile edges—places you won’t see until the damage shows in soft walls or warped floors.

Even light movement from daily use can split a brittle seal. When you replace old caulk, you’re not just cleaning up a seam—you’re protecting the structure around it.

Start with a dry surface, apply carefully, and let it cure. That’s how you stop mold from coming back.

How to know it’s time to replace old caulk

You don’t need to wait for visible damage to know your caulk is failing. Look for early signs where the tub meets the tile or wall:

  • Cracked, flaking, or pulling caulk: the seal is starting to break down
  • Discoloration at the edges: often a sign that moisture has lingered
  • Shifting or brittle texture: press lightly along the bead; if it lifts or crumbles, it’s failed

Even a narrow split can open the door to moisture. This is a sign you need to recaulk the bathtub. Sealing the joint properly helps stop further damage.

Choosing the right sealant for a waterproof bathtub finish

In wet zones like bathrooms, sealants face constant moisture, movement, and mold pressure—most don’t last. Acrylic caulk shrinks, cracks, and fails under those conditions, even if it looks fine on day one. For a waterproof bathtub seal that holds, use 100% silicone:

  • GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath is built for long-term durability. With Class 50 flexibility and 483% elongation, it flexes with your tub as it shifts, without pulling or cracking. It holds stronger under stress and protects against mold for up to 10 years. Ideal for recaulking bathtubs, corners, or areas with movement or wide joints.
  • GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath delivers dependable performance for standard seams and smooth surfaces. It has Class 35 flexibility, a slightly softer finish that’s easier to smooth and is water-ready in 30 minutes. A solid choice when appearance and ease of application are the priority.
  • GE Interior Seal Silicone Sealant (squeeze tube) gives you precision control for smaller resealing jobs, touch-ups, or tight spaces—same fast cure, same mold resistance.

Once you’ve chosen the right sealant, gather the rest of your tools.

What you’ll need to recaulk your bathtub

Before you cut or apply anything, set yourself up with the right tools. Clean removal and a steady bead help your seal last and look better.

Tools

  • GE Sealant Remover Tool: Lifts old caulk without damaging tile or tub surfaces.
  • Rubbing alcohol or a mold-resistant surface cleaner: Removes residue and helps the new sealant bond properly.
  • Painter’s tape: Keeps your bead lines straight and makes cleanup easy.
  • GE Sealant Smoothing Tool:  Shapes a clean, even finish before the sealant skins over.
  • Optional: GE 2-in-1 Cartridge Opener and Smoothing Tool:  Opens tubes cleanly and doubles as a finishing tool.

Materials

  • GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath or GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath:  Choose based on joint movement and surface needs.
  • Optional: GE Interior Seal Silicone (squeeze tube): For tight spaces, touch-ups, or when a full tube feels like overkill.
GE Supreme, Advanced Silicone products—used for recaulking bathtubs for a clean, mold-resistant finish.
A clean product shot showing GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath, and Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Silicone.

How to recaulk your bathtub like a pro

A clean, watertight seal starts with solid prep and a steady hand. Follow these steps to recaulk your bathtub the right way, for a clean finish that holds up to daily use.

  1. Remove the old caulk Use the GE Sealant Remover Tool to cut along the edges and lift the old bead completely. Don’t leave fragments—any leftover material can compromise the new seal. Once removed, wipe down the area with rubbing alcohol or a mold-resistant cleaner.

    Let the surface dry fully before moving on. Moisture under fresh sealant ruins adhesion and invites mold later.

  2. Tape your lines Apply painter’s tape about 1/8 inch from each side of the joint. This keeps the new bead clean and even, especially if you’re sealing along tiles. Press the tape firmly so no sealant seeps underneath. It’s a small step that makes the final result look crisp.
  3. Apply the new sealant Use your selected GE silicone—whether it’s a cartridge or squeeze tube—to lay a steady, continuous bead along the joint. Keep even pressure and try not to stop mid-line. As soon as it’s applied, smooth the bead with a GE Sealant Smoothing Tool or a gloved fingertip. Shape it before the sealant starts to skin—within a few minutes.

    Man sealing baseboard near tub to prevent moisture damage.
    A man kneels on a drop cloth in a modern bathroom, not forgetting to seal the baseboard near a freestanding tub to protect the wall from moisture.
  4. Let it cure GE silicone is water-ready in 30 minutes, but avoid touching or exposing the seal for 24 hours so it can fully cure into a waterproof barrier for your bathtub. Rushing this step is one of the most common DIY mistakes.
    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Hsk4t2U9mE&t=5s

Mold prevention tips for the bathroom that last

Even mold-resistant silicone benefits from a little upkeep. These quick habits help your seal hold longer and stop mold before it starts:

  • Run the fan or open a window after showers to clear out moisture
  • Wipe the sealant line dry, especially in corners and along the tub base where water collects
  • Check the seal once a year for cracks or lifting that could let water in

Taking these steps goes a long way toward long-term performance and mold prevention in the bathroom.

Don’t make these common mistakes when replacing old caulk

Even with the right tools and sealant, small missteps can undo the job. Here’s what trips up most DIYers—and how to avoid it:

  • Rushing surface prep: Any leftover grime or soap film can block adhesion.
  • Cutting the nozzle unevenly: It throws off control and gives you a messy bead.
  • Waiting too long to smooth the line: Once silicone starts to skin, it won’t shape cleanly.
  • Using acrylic caulk for wet areas: If it’s not 100% silicone, it won’t last in a bathroom.

Recaulking around your bathtub? Use a 100% silicone sealant that flexes with movement, blocks mold, and delivers a waterproof finish. Find GE Supreme Silicone Kitchen & Bath or GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath at a retailer near you in the U.S. or Canada.

Contact Form

Interior Seal Silicone Sealant

Contact Form

Reseal your home before the summer heat, rain, and UV rays break down old sealant Sealant maintenance: how to inspect and refresh seals around your home

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

Sealant protects your home from leaks, drafts, and mold—but only if it holds. Heat, humidity, and heavy summer storms can push old seals past their limits. In this guide, you’ll learn how to spot sealant failure early, remove it cleanly, and reseal your home with confidence.

Why seasonal sealant maintenance matters

Summer punishes sealant. Heat stretches joints, UV weakens surface bonds, and storms push water into any cracks that opened up since last year. All it takes is a pulled edge or brittle bead, and the problems begin.

A failed seal lets moisture creep into trim, framing, or drywall. Mold follows. So does wasted energy, as cool air slips through unsealed gaps and your AC works harder than it should.

You can catch it before it spreads. You just need to know where to check, and what wear looks like before it turns into water damage. Sealant maintenance keeps the small stuff small before it becomes a soaked floor or an unplanned repair bill.

Sealant maintenance helps prevent slow leaks, moisture damage, and energy loss. GE’s silicone formulas flex, seal, and stay put even under summer heat, rain, and UV.

Home maintenance tips: where to inspect for failing sealant

Start where the elements hit hardest, then work your way in. Any spot exposed to moisture, airflow, or direct sun is where sealant breaks down first, usually before you notice.

Bathrooms and kitchens

Tubs, showers, sinks, backsplashes—anywhere water sits or steam rises. Check for beads that are soft, discolored, cracked, or pulling away from the tile or fixtures. Mold reappearing in the same spot? That’s likely a failed seal.

Windows and doors

Look along the trim, frame corners, and sills—inside and out. UV exposure and temperature swings can wear sealant down. Run your finger along the bead. If it powders, flakes, or lifts at the edges, it’s done.

Outdoor touchpoints

Inspect siding joints, utility penetrations, hose bibs, and vent flanges. South- and west-facing walls take the most sun, so check them first. Hardened lines, widened cracks, or pealing edges mean it’s no longer doing its job.

What sealant failure looks like:

  • Cracks that widen under light pressure
  • Beads lifting from one or both edges
  • Sealant that flakes, powders, or feels brittle
  • Mold reappears after cleaning
  • Hardened or shrunken lines

If you spot any of these, it’s time to start resealing home joints before summer weather turns a worn seal into a full-on leak. You don’t need special tools—just a careful look and a minute of your time.

Removing old sealant

Don’t seal over old work. It won’t hold, and it won’t last. Use the GE Sealant Remover Tool to break the old bead cleanly. Push the pointed end into the sealant and move forward, or use the lower point to pull it toward you.

A gloved hand using the GE Sealant Remover Tool to lift a line of old caulk from a bathroom tile joint.
A person using the GE Sealant Remover Tool to peel away a line of old sealant from a bathroom corner joint.

Once the bead starts lifting, remove it in full strips where possible. Use the flat end of the tool to scrape away any residue. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol to remove dust, oils, and soap film.

Let the area dry completely before resealing—a clean, dry bond is what gives the new sealant the strength to hold.

For a full demo, follow this step-by-step guide on how to remove old sealant cleanly and safely.

Match the product to the job

Not all sealants are built the same. What’s inside the tube determines how well it performs when joints shift, sweat, or expand under heat.

Matching the product to the space makes all the difference. You want flex, staying power, and confidence that it won’t crack or pull away the moment conditions change. Sealant maintenance gets easier when you use the right product from the start.

Here’s how to line up GE’s options with the work you’re doing:

  • For bathrooms: Use GE Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant. It’s flexible, mold-resistant, and water-ready in 30 minutes—built to perform where moisture never really stops.
  • For exterior trim and siding: Go with GE Supreme Silicone Window & Door Sealant. It handles Class 50 movement, resists sun damage, and won’t shrink or crack with temperature swings.
  • For quick indoor touch-ups: Grab the Interior Seal Silicone Sealant (2.8oz squeeze tube). No caulk gun needed, making it perfect for resealing home baseboards, window trim, or fast fixes.

These three picks handle the most common sealing jobs and cover the same trouble spots you’ll find in trusted home maintenance tips year after year.

GE sealants for kitchen, exterior, and indoor repairs.
A product shot of Supreme Silicone Window & Door Sealant

How to reseal properly: resealing home joints that last

Good sealant is only as strong as the job behind it. When it comes to sealant maintenance, application matters just as much as the product. Here’s how to reseal like a pro—clean, efficient, and built to hold.

  1. Prep the surface: If you’ve already removed the old bead, skip ahead. If not, refer back to the removal section above.
  2. Apply the bead: Use steady pressure and move in one smooth motion. Fill the joint evenly—don’t overload it. Too much sealant can trap moisture or delay curing.
  3. Tool the joint: Shape the bead immediately. Use a gloved finger or the GE Sealant Smoothing Tool for a clean, uniform finish. Starting with a new tube? The GE Cartridge Opener & Smoothing Tool lets you cut the nozzle and smooth the bead with the same tool.
  4. Let it cure: Check the label. For example, Advanced Silicone Kitchen & Bath Sealant is water-ready in 30 minutes, but give it 24 hours before applying pressure or exposing it to water.

Build sealant checks into your home maintenance routine

Most people notice a failed seal after the damage starts. Catch it earlier by making sealant checks part of your seasonal routine.

It only takes 10–15 minutes. Walk your high-risk zones: bathrooms, windows, siding joints, vents. Look for mold, gaps, cracks, or beads that lift when touched.

If you’ve recently resealed home joints, this is where you make sure it’s holding up. A quick scan now can save you from having to redo work or clean up after a slow leak.

One of the most practical home maintenance tips is to check your seals in the spring and fall. It helps keep moisture out, preserve the materials around each joint, and protect the fixes you’ve already put in place.

Pair this step with HVAC filter changes, gutter clearing, or weatherstripping checks. You’ll stay ahead of wear—and avoid surprise repairs.

Need the right sealant for the job? Find trusted GE Sealants at a store near you in the U.S. or Canada.

Contact Form

Exterior Seal Acrylic Caulk

Contact Form

With poolside waterproofing, you can keep your outdoor space beautiful for years The ultimate guide to poolside waterproofing

Note: This DIY article is provided as a general guide only and is not intended to take the place of product-specific installation procedures; always follow applicable manufacturers’ instructions. Depending on your home’s age and condition, location within the home, and other potential factors, repairs and/or upgrades or other services may be necessary prior to the beginning and/or completion of your project that may involve the services of a home improvement professional. This article does not include advice pertaining to local building codes and/or any related inspections.

Pool season is all about fun in the sun, but all that water exposure and intense UV radiation can take a toll on your outdoor surfaces. Cracks in your patio, worn edges around the deck, or mold creeping into crevices are more than cosmetic issues; they’re signs that your pool area needs protection. In this guide, we’ll explore how to tackle poolside waterproofing by focusing on the critical areas that matter most: joints, cracks, edges, and small gaps around your pool deck and patio.

Silicone sealant and insulating foam are innovative, targeted solutions for sealing cracks, gaps, and joints most vulnerable to water damage around your deck or patio.

Why poolside waterproofing matters

When water seeps into cracks or gaps around your pool deck or patio, it doesn’t just disappear. It penetrates. Over time, repeated exposure to moisture, pool chemicals, and UV rays can cause:

  • Cracking and shifting in concrete or stone
  • Mold and mildew growth in joints and crevices
  • Erosion or rot in wooden decks or surrounding materials
  • Pest entry points in gaps and holes

Proper poolside waterproofing helps stop these issues at the source. By sealing small but significant vulnerabilities, you can protect your pool patio, reduce long-term maintenance costs, and enjoy a safer, more beautiful outdoor space.

Silicone sealant and insulating foam: the top choices for poolside waterproofing

When it comes to poolside waterproofing, not all materials are created equal. Silicone sealant and insulating foam are smart, targeted solutions for sealing the cracks, gaps, and joints around your deck or patio that are most vulnerable to water damage.

  • Silicone sealant is highly durable, flexible, and weather-resistant, making it ideal for outdoor use. It can handle exposure to UV rays, temperature fluctuations, and frequent water contact without cracking or shrinking. It’s perfect for joints and seams around pool decks and patios.
  • Insulating foam expands to fill larger gaps and blocks moisture and airflow, helping to prevent long-term damage and pest intrusion. Those made for exterior use cure into a formidable, water-resistant barrier perfect for hard-to-reach or awkwardly shaped spots around your pool area.

Together, these materials offer an efficient, easy-to-apply way to protect your outdoor space without resurfacing everything.

Pool deck waterproofing: focus on the vulnerable areas first

This guide emphasizes targeted waterproofing, using silicone sealants and insulating foams in critical areas prone to water damage and wear. Here’s where to start:

1. Expansion joints and cracks in the pool deck

Expansion joints are built-in gaps that allow concrete to expand and contract with temperature changes. Over time, they can dry out, split, or collect water, especially around pool edges where splash zones are frequent.

What to do:

  • Clean out debris from the joints.
  • Make sure the area is dry.
  • Fill with an outdoor-grade silicone sealant that is UV and water-resistant. The GE Concrete Silicone Sealant is perfect for the job since it’s designed for concrete, mortar, and stone.

Tip: A flexible sealant ensures the joint remains watertight while accommodating slight movement.

2. Gaps between patio stones or pavers

Natural stone patios or pavers near the pool often develop small gaps where water can pool or seep beneath the surface. Maintaining and sealing tile pavers is essential for longevity and safety.

What to do:

  • Inspect the edges and joints between stones.
  • Use silicone sealant to close narrow gaps and seams where water might collect.
  • Don’t seal the entire surface. Just reinforce problem areas to prevent erosion or weed growth.
A fenced-in pool and patio area.
An image of a fenced-in pool patio area.

3. Where the pool deck meets the house or fence

Transitional areas are often overlooked but are highly vulnerable to water damage, especially where the deck meets the base of your home, fence, or garden structures.

What to do:

  • Look for visible gaps, loose caulk, or crumbling edges.
  • A silicone sealant closes these transitions and prevents moisture from entering behind the siding or into foundational materials.

Using insulating foam to protect your pool patio

Insulating foam isn’t just for interior use. It can also be used outdoors to block air and water intrusion in specific situations. Our GE Gaps & Cracks Foam is perfect for smaller openings up to one inch wide. Try the GE Big Gaps & Cracks Foam for one to three-inch openings.

Ideal outdoor uses include:

  • Filling larger gaps behind pool equipment housing or around pool sheds.
  • Sealing around outdoor pipe penetrations or utility openings.
  • Blocking rodent or pest entry points in baseboards or foundation cracks near the pool.

Be sure to choose a product labeled for exterior use, like our insulating foams. Once cured, always trim the excess foam to create a neat finish.

Tips for proper application to waterproof outdoor surfaces

To make sure your pool deck waterproofing efforts last, follow these best practices:

  • Clean first: Surfaces should be dry, clean, and free of loose material before sealing.
  • Choose the right product: Use silicone sealants for outdoor and wet-area applications.
  • Apply when dry: Pick a dry, mild day with no rain in the forecast for at least 24 hours.

Let it cure: Most sealants and foams need time to cure fully (about 24 hours). Check the label for specific timing before exposing them to water.

Homeowner following summer pool maintenance tips by cleaning the pool of debris.
An image of someone cleaning a pool.

Additional summer pool maintenance tips

While sealing gaps and joints is a great place to start, ongoing care helps preserve your pool area:

  • Sweep and rinse your deck regularly to remove debris and chemical residue.
  • Check for new cracks or wear every few months, especially at the start and end of the season.
  • Keep nearby landscaping trimmed to reduce organic buildup and mildew near hard surfaces.
  • Avoid power-washing sealed joints, as it can loosen or damage the sealant.

FAQ

Do I need to seal my entire pool deck or just the cracks and joints?

If you’re using silicone sealant, it’s meant for cracks, gaps, and transitions, not entire surfaces. For larger-scale projects, you’d need a deck coating product for full-surface sealing.

How often should I reseal the joints around my pool deck?

Inspect sealed areas at least once a year. Resealing every one to two years (or sooner if you notice cracking or peeling) is ideal for high-traffic, high-moisture zones.

Can I use insulating foam near the pool?

Yes, as long as it’s rated for exterior use and protected from direct, prolonged UV exposure. Use it to fill larger gaps that may appear.

How long should I wait after sealing before using the pool again?

Most silicone sealants require 24 hours to cure. During this time, keep the area dry to ensure proper bonding and waterproofing.

Will sealing the joints prevent mold and mildew?

Sealing helps keep water out of gaps where mold thrives. While it won’t eliminate mold, it significantly reduces the chance of growth.

Waterproofing your poolside space isn’t just about appearance. It’s about preserving your investment and preventing future headaches. By targeting the most vulnerable areas with high-performance silicone sealants and insulating foams, you can keep your pool deck and patio safe from the wear and tear of summer fun.

To find the perfect products for your next project, visit a store near you in the U.S. or Canada.